
Class _i. 
Book. 



Copyright N°_ 



jn 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



SECOND EDITION 



ScHULMAN's System 



OF 



Garment Cutting 



Coat and Vest Measure 

- and 

Adjustable Trouser System 



A MOST COMPREHENSIVE 
TREATISE ON THE ART 
AND SCIENCE OF CUTTING 
COATS, VESTS and TROUSERS 



(( 



Published and Arranged by 

L. SCHULMAN 

Director of the 

Schulman" School of Garment Cutting 



Copyright 19!6, by L. Schulman, N. Y 



PREFACE. ■'^^''''■ 



Having thoroughly mastered the subject of designing, I have 
deemed it advisable to impart the valuable knowledge that I have 
gained through thirty-five years of study and experience. The many 
years I have devoted to designing and garment cutting, enables me 
to edit the most practical treatise ever published on the subject. 

In submitting this second edition, I desire respectfully to direct 
attention, that the entire work has been carefully revised and brought 
up-to-date. 

I have made a most careful study of the necessities of the student 
for drafting patterns for abnormal figures, and have imparted this 
information in concise, accurate and well defined terms. More- 
over, in following my rules laid down, the student is enabled to cut 
any size or shape desired. This factor is essential and is one of my 
methods for making the student more practical. 

The compilation of a table of proportionate measures for the 
various heights, will also enable the student to understand, when 
comparing his own measures with the table of measures, whether 
his client is normal or abnormal, and thereby make the necessary 
changes. 

Of the many testimonials I have received, regarding my system 
work, I will mention only one, and that — after our work has met 
the rigid test and strict inspection of the United States Government, 
it has permitted my name to be printed in the Industrial Honor Roll 
in the "History of the Panama Canal." 

I also desire to extend thanks to my sons, who have worked 
zealously to make this edition a success. 

Extremely confident in the invaluable services this book will 
render to all concerned, I am, 

Sincerely yours, 
V L. SCHULMAN. 



Il^-^lf^ 



/ 



JAN t^O 1916 

(S)C!.A418516 



INDEX. 



PAGES 

Preface 4 

How to Measure Trousers 6-7 

Special Note 6 

How to Take a Measure 30-31 

The Vest Measure 30-31 

TROUSERS DRAFTING 

The Forepart" 8-9 

The Backpart 10-11 

Stout Forepart 12-13 

Stout Backpart 14-15 

Stooping, Stout Form 16-17 

Knickerbocker Breeches 18-19 

Riding Breeches 20-21 

Large Seat and Flat Hips 22-23 

Round Hips and Flat Seat 24-25 

ALTERATIONS FOR TROUSERS 
DRAFTING 

Bow-Legs 26-27 

Knock-Knees 26 

Bent Legs 26 

Small and Large Thighs 26 

VEST DRAFTING 

S. B. Vest Notch Collar 32-33 

Notch Collar for S. B. Vest 32-33 

S. B. Vest, No Collar 34-35 

D. B. Collar Vest 34-35 

D. B. No-Collar Vest 34-35 

S. B. Dress Vest 36-37 

D. B. Dress Vest 36-37 

Stout Vest Drafting 38-39 

COAT DRAFTING 

Framework and Regulation for Heights 28-29 

Conservative S. B. Sack 40-41 

Form-Fitting S. B. Sack 42-43 

D. B. Sack 44-45 



PAGES 

Tuxedo Sack 46-47 

High Shoulder Form 50-51 

Sleeve for High Shoulder Form 50-51 

Stooping, Round Back Form 52-53 

S. B. Sack for Erect Forms 54-55 

Stout S. B. Sack 56-57 

Stooping, Corpulent Form 58-59 

Erect Stout Form 60-61 

SLEEVE DRAFTING 

Sleeve 48-49 

OVERCOAT DRAFTING 

Semi-Fit S. B. Overcoat 62-63 

S. B. Box Overcoat 64-65 

D. B. Ulster Overcoat 66-67 

Storm Collar for Ulster 66-67 

Raglan Overcoat 68-69 

Raglan Sleeve 68-69 

Stout S. B. Overcoat 70-71 

Inverness Cape Overcoat 72-73 

FROCK DRAFTING 

S. B. Cutaway 74-75 

D. B. Frock 76-77 

Full Dress 78-79 

One-Piece Full Dress 80-81 

Stout S. B. Cutaway 82-83 

Stout D. B. Frock 84-85 

Stout Full Dress 86-87 

TESTING 

Testing Spring of Cutaway Skirt' 88-89 

Test for Sidebody Length 88-89 

Testing Spring of Dress Coat 90-91 

CLOSE CAPE 

Close Cape 92-93 

Table of Proportionate Measures 94 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



"HOW TO MEASURE TROUSERS" 

The measurements for trousers should be taken in the following form: — 

The Outside length on ordinary trousers should be taken from the hip down to the top of the 
heel of shoe, as shown from I) to C. 

The Inside length should be taken high in the crotch to avoid short length measurement, as 
shown from A to O. 

The Waist is measured over the trousers, as shown by \V. 

The Seat measure is taken next. This measure should be taken over the full part of seat, as 
shown by O. 

The Double-thigh measure controls the system upon which I draft my trousers. I find this 
measure differs according to the form of the hips. In the normal figure you will find that 
the Double-thigh measure, which is taken below the full part of seat, as shown by T on 
Figures 1 and 2, gives you a difference of 3 inches less than the seat. 

The Knee and Bottom measurements are taken over the knee and bottom, as shown by N and B. 

SPECIAL NOTE. 

When measuring trousers take particular notice as to the shape and attitude of person 
being measured, enabling you when drafting trousers to use the necessary methods 
needed as shown in diagrams pertaining to the various forms, such as Bow-legs, Knock- 
knees, Round-hips and Flat-seat, Large-seat and Flat-hips. Also erect and stooping forms. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



KNEE 



BO TTOM 



A ill ll. 




WAIST 



SEAT 



DOUBLE-THIGH 



WAIST 




FIGURE No. 1 FIGURE No. 2 

HOW TO MEASURE TROUSERS 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

THE FOREPART DIAGRAM NO. 1 

The following measure will be used for this diagram : — 

Outside length 39 Double thigh 35 

Inside length 30 Knee 19 

Waist 32 Bottom 16 

Seat 38 Rise 9 

It must be understood that when drafting trousers that the Halves, Fourths, Eighths, Sixths, 
Thirds, etc., are found on the ordinary square. 

Starting at A. square forward and down 1 inch from edge of paper. 

D from A is the outside length, 39 inches. 

B up from D is the inside length, 30 inches. 

C for knee point is located by dividing the inside length in half jflus lJ-2 inches up towards B. 

Square forward from points A, B, C and D. 

E from B is 3^^ double-thigh. 

F from E is ^ double-thigh and allow Y^ inch from F for point G. 

K is located on waist line by squaring up at point E. 

H from E is 5^ double-thigh. 

2 is located by squaring in at point H and allow y2 inch from 2 for hip curve. 

I from H is ^ inch for crotch and divide in half for dressing. 

J from K is J4 inch. 

Connect points J and I. 

Connect points I and G. 

V is halfways between I and G. 

Connect V with E as shown and divide in 4 equal parts. 

Shape crotch from point J to I to G, as shown. 

L from J is one-quarter waist (8 inches). 

Curve hip line from L to 2. 

M is halfways between B and F. Square up and down from M, thus giving you center line of 
forepart and locating point N at knee-line. 

P from N is one-fourth knee. 

R from N is one-fourth knee. 

Z is located by advancing J4 inch from center line at bottom of forepart. 

S from Z is one-fourth bottom. 

T from Z is one-fourth bottom. 

Take 34 iiich off both sides of bottom points S and T (which is later allowed on back), and con- 
nect points S and T with knee points R and P. 

Connect points 2 with R. 

Use curve ruler and connect G with P, also, marking dressing as shown. 

Hollow bottom of forepart as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



J K 



i 




M 



-^ 



N 



R 




THE FOREPART 



DIAGRAM No. 1 



10 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

THE BACKPART DIAGRAM NO. 2 

Cut out the forepart and place it on another sheet of paper and continue for backpart as shown 
on Diagram No. 2, which is explained as follows: — 

Begin by drawing a line }i inch below the forepart seat-line as shown by broken line. 

Extend lines at knee on both sides, also, at bottom, draw a line 54 i"ch below bottom of fore- 
part. 

10 for backpart is 1 inch from T and divide same in half. 

8 from S is 1 J4 inches and divide same in half. 
Y from R at knee is 3^ inch. 

W from P is ^ inch. 

Connect point Y with point halfways between T and 10 with straight ruler. Curve spring of 
bottom to 10 as shown. 

Connect point W with point halfways between 8 and S with straight ruler. Curve spring of 

bottom to 8 as shown. 
Shape bottom of backpart. 

3 from M is y^ seat. 

4 from 3 is 2 inches for seams. 
2 from G is Yiq double thigh. 

6 from 2 is 1 inch. 

Connect 6 and W with curve ruler as shown. 

Extend waist line of forepart as shown by broken line. 

5 from O is 2 inches. 

7 from 5 is one-quarter waist. 

9 from 7 is 2 inches for seams. 
Connect points 9 and 5 as shown. 

Connect points 9 and 4 curving into Y as shown. 

Connect points 5 and X. 

Shape crotch of backpart. 

Cut \' in i)ackpart, thus completing Diagram No. 2. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



11 




THE BACKPART 



DIAGRAM No. 2 



12 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

STOUT FOREPART DIAGRAM NO. 3 

The following measures will be used for this diagram : — 

Outside length 40i/^ nouble thigh 46 

Inside length 30 Knee 22 

Waist 46 Bottom 18 

Seat 49 Rise IQi^ 

It must be understood that all previous points explained in Diagram No. 1 are used for draft- 
ing the stout forepart. 

With the following changes for stouts we draft according to tlie above measures. 

3 from point J is J4 double thigh (being measured 

5 from 3 is J4 inch. This allowance is regulated by the corpulence of person. 

7 is located on waist line by connecting 5 and I. 

9 is half ways between 7 and J. 

Raise point 9 five-eighths of an inch. 

L is located by applying one-quarter waist from raised point 9. 

From point 9 shape down through 5 to I and curve under point V to G as shown. 

At knee fix ^ inch forward from point N as indicated. 

Apply one-quarter knee on both sides of point N, giving you points R and P. 

The bottom is fixed as in Diagram No. 1 also, taking off 54 inch from both sides S and T. 

The hip is shaped from L at waist through point 2 to B and curved a little inward to point R. 

Mark dressing as shown. 

Curve bottom of forepart, thus completing Diagram No. 3. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



13 




STOUT FOREPART 



DIAGRAM No. 3 



14 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

STOUT BACKPART DIAGRAM NO. 4 

Cut out the forepart and place it on another sheet of paper and continue for the backpart as 

shown in Diagram No. 4, which is explained as follows : — 
Begin by drawing a line }i inch below forepart seat line. At knee extend line at both sides. 

At bottom draw a line J4 inch below bottom of forepart. 
Allowances for the bottom are the same as in regular pants. 
Y from R at knee is 34 inch. 
W from P is 1 inch. 
Connect 10 and Y and 8 and R as explained in Diagram No. 2. 

3 from M is y^ seat. 

4 from 3 is 2 inches for seams. 
2 from G is ^Xc double thigh. 

6 from 2 is 1 inch. 
Extend center line at waist. 

5 from O is 2 inches. 

7 from 5 is one-quarter waist on extended waist line as shown. 
9 from 7 is 2 inches for seams. 

Connect 9 and 5 as shown. 

Connect 9 and 4 into Y as shown. 

Connect 5 and X. 

Shape crotch as shown. 

Connect 6 with W with curve ruler as shown. 

Cut V in backpart. thus completing Diagram No. 4. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



15 




STOUT BACKPART 



DIAGRAM No. 4 



16 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

STOOPING STOUT FORM DIAGRAM NO. 5 

The following measures will be used for this diagram : — 

Outside length WJ^ Double thigh 45 

Inside length 30 Knee 22 

Waist 46 Bottom 18 

Seat 48 Rise 10>4 

This form is drafted the same as the regular stout with changes for the stooping stout as fol- 
lows : — 

The fore]iart is drafted the same as in stout. Diagram No. 3, with the exception of knee point, 
which instead of being shifted remains on center line. 

Note that the seat line for this backpart rests (in forcjiart seat line. 

2 from G is y^ double-thigh. 

6 from 2 is 3^ inch. 

3 from M is ]/s seat. 

4 from 3 is 2 inches for seams. 
Y from R at knee is ^ inch. 
W from P is 3^ inch. 

Points 8 and 10 are located as explained in pre ious Diagram. No. 3. 

Connect points Y with 10 and W with 8 and fi 'sh as explained in previous Diagram. No. 3. 

Connect 6 and \V with curve ruler as shown. 

Extend center line at waist. 

5 from O is Y^ double-thigh. 

Advancing 1 inch from point 5 for point A we connect x\ with point X. 
Shape crotch as shown. 

7 from A is one-quarter waist on extended waist line. 
9 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Raise point 9 one-quarter of an inch and connect same with point A and finish as shown. 

Connect 9 and 4 into Y as shown. 

Cut V in backpart, thus completing Diagram No. 5. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



17 




STOOPING, STOUT FORM 



DIAGRAM No. 5 



18 ^ SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

KNICKERBOCKER BREECHES DIAGRAM NO. 6 

For knickerbocker breeches the measurements are taken the same as for ordinary trousers with 
the exception of the knee, which is not measured. The calf of the leg is measured instead. 

Outside length 41 Double thigh 34 

Inside length 32 Calf of leg 14 

Waist 31 Rise 9 

Seat ^i? 

The instructions for this diagram are as follows : — 

Square forward and down from starting point A. 

D from A is the outside length. 

B from D is the inside length. 

R is one-half inside length up from D plus IJ/2 inches. 

E from B is 3/2 double thigh. Square up locating K on waist line. 

F from E is 3^ double thigh. 

G from F is 1 inch. 

2 from B is 3^ double thigh and square forward. 

1 on 2 line is >)4 inch from E line. 
J from K is J4 inch. 

Connect I with J and shape crotch as shown. 

L from J is one-quarter full waist. 

N from 2 is 2 inches. 

M is halfways between B and F and square up and down, locating star point on knee line. 

K is 3^ the distance between R and D on center line. 

Square out both ways from K as shown by broken line. 

H on center line is 4 inches from K. 

This forms the drop for knickerbocker breeches. 

C from H is J4 calf. 

9 from C is 134 inches. 

D from H is >4 calf. 

8 from D is 134 inches. 

Starting from point L at waist shape hip curve down to point N through point ^4 inch from 

R to point 8 as shown. 
P on knee line is located by squaring down from point F. 
Connect points G and P with 9 and shape as shown. 
Divide H and 9 in half and cut V Yi inch wide and 2j/2 inches long. 
Divide H and 8 in half and cut V Y2 inch wide and 2 J/2 inches long. 
Shape bottom of forepart. 

Lower point J on waist J^ inch and shape waist line to L. 
Mark dressing as shown. 

BACKPART. 

Cut out the forepart and place it on another sheet of paper and continue for backpart as shown. 

Extend waist, seat, knee, calf, and bottom lines. 

Extend center line at O. 

5 from O is ^/^ double thigh. 

5 from 5 is 34 inch. 

7 from 5 on extended waist line is one-quarter full waist. 

9 from 7 is 2 inches for seams. 
Connect 9 with S and shape as shown. 
4 from M is J/^ seat. 

3 from 4 is 3 inches. This includes seams. 
Y from R is 1];4 inches. 

10 from 8 is J/ inch. 

Shape from 9 at waist through 3 to Y and 10, as shown. 

2 from G is ^g double thigh. 

6 from 2 is 1 inch. 
W from P is % inch. 
12 from 9 is 54 inch. 

Connect points 6 with W and 12 and shape as shown. 

Connect points S with point marked X and finish crotch as shown. 

Shape bottom of backpart. 

Cut V's in backpart. 

Cut V in waist of backpart and finish diagram as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



19 




KNICKERBOCKER BREECHES 



DIAGRAM No. 6 



20 ' SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

RIDING BREECHES DIAGRAM NO. 7 

The same measures can be used for this diagram as for the knickerbocker breeches. 

We also use the same process to fix the points on the seat and waist lines. This being done, 
we proceed with the following changes : 

B from C is one-half the inside length, less iy2 inches. 

D from B is ^ of half the inside length. 

E from D is 3 inches for cuff or change to suit. 

Square forward from B, D and E. 

S and T are one-fourth knee from knee-point on center line. 

V from P is one-fourth calf at bottom. 
U from P is one-eighth calf plus ^ inch. 
Shape forepart as shown. 

10 from B is V^ the length from B to E. 

Square forward, locating point 8 on forepart line. 

The width of cuff from 8 to H is buttoned to side of forepart. 

BACKPART. 

The front being cut out we use the same process for fixing the points of backpart on the seat 
and waist line as explained in knickerbocker breeches. 

W from S is 1 inch on knee-line. 

Y from T is 1 inch on knee-line. 

20 from V is 3/2 inch. 

E is located by measuring the bottom of the forepart from V to U with the tape and apply the 
same at point 20, we measure 14 inches over to point E, allowing 1 inch for seams. 

The backpart is finished from 9 past 4 and Y to E. 

Connect points 2, W and 20 as shown. 

Allow ^ inch at Y and E for buttons and for cuft' as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



21 




RIDING BREECHES 



U E 

DIAGRAM No. 7 



22 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

LARGE SEAT AND FLAT HIPS DIAGRAM NO. 8 

When measuring for Figure 8 take particular notice as to the shape of hips and seat of party 
being measured. With the exception of the double thigh, which in this case is 4 inches 
less than the seat, we use the same process for fixing the points for the seat, waist and 
length as shown in Diagrams 1 and 2. This being done we proceed with the following 
changes : 

E from D is J/2 double thigh. 

F from E is J/g double thigh. 

G from F is J/2 inch. 

J from K is ^ inch, as this form has a tendency to be corpulent. 

Shape slightly out from J to G of forepart. 

Finish forepart as shown in Diagram No. 1. 

BACKPART. 

5 from 5 is >^ inch. 

7 from S is one-quarter full waist. 
9 from 7 is 2 inches for seams. 
C from B is J/2 inch. 

2 from G is ^g double thigh. - „ 

6 from 2 is % inch. 

Shape seat from S through C through F to 6 as shown. 
4 from M is yi seat. 

3 from 4 is 1 J/2 inches. 

Finish backpart as explained in Diagram No. 1. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



23 





FIGURE FOR 

LARGE SEAT AND 

FLAT HIPS 



LARGE SEAT AND FLAT HIPS 
DIAGRAM No. 8 



Figure No. 8 



24 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

ROUND HIPS AND FLAT SEAT DIAGRAM NO. 9 

When measuring for Figure 9 take particular notice as to the shape of hips and seat of party 
being measured. With the exception of the double thigh, which in this case is 2 or 2]/^ 
inches less than the seat, we use the same process for fixing the points for the seat, waist 
and length as in Diagrams 1 and 2. 

This being done, we proceed with the following changes: — 

J from K is J4 inch. 

Shape from J to G. 

Allow 1 inch at point 2 of forepart for round hips. 

The knee and bottom of forepart are drafted the same as in Diagram No. 1. 

Shape from L at waist through 2 past R to T, as shown. 

BACKPART. 

The bottom is drafted the same as in Diagram No. 1. 
W from P and Y from R at knee is J4 inch. 

4 from M is ^ seat. 

3 from 4 is 2^ inches. 

2 from G is ^c double thigh. 

6 from 2 is 1 inch. 

Shape from 6 through W to 8 as shown. 

5 from O is 2 inches. 

7 from 5 is one-quarter full waist. 
9 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Shape down from 9 through 3 to Y and 10 as shown. 

Connect 5 with X and shape seat inward as shown. 

Special Note. — This form has a tendency for bow-legs requiring the same process as explained 
in Diagram No. 10. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



25 




FIGURE FOR 

ROUND HIPS AND 

FLAT SEAT 

Figure No. 9 




ROUND HIPS AND FLAT SEAT 
DIAGRAM No. 9 



26 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



ALTERATIONS FOR TROUSERS DRAFTING. 

DIAGRAM NO. 10 

This diagram illustrates changes for the following forms. 

As I have said before, the cutter must take particular notice as to the shape and form of the 
legs of person being measured. 

BOW-LEGS 

For the bow-legs we use the following process: — 

The patterns are drafted regular without paying attention to the shape of the legs. 

When the pattern is cut out fix a point fi inch (we find it sufficient for the ordinary bow-legs) 
from B to A. Fix point C a little lower than knee line. This being done we fold B to A 
and fix inside length according to measure needed, thus giving you a correct and useful 
method for ordinary bow-legs. This explanation applies to forepart and backpart. 

KNOCK-KNEES 

The method explained above can be used for knock-knees by reversing the lines. 
Using point D we fix }i inch from E to F and connect same with D as shown. 

Fold E to F and fix outside length according to measure, thus giving you proper method for 

ordinary knock-knees. 

BENT-LEGS 

We sometimes find people who are not exactly bow-legged, but their legs are bent just below 
the knee. 

We apply the following useful method : 

Point J is located half ways between knee and bottom. 

Point L on inseam is two-thirds the difference between knee and bottom. 

Point M is ^ inch up from L. Connect L and M to J. 

Fold L to M, giving you the required results. Also fix inside length according to measure. 
This explanation applies to forepart and backpart. 

SMALL AND LARGE THIGHS 

Sometimes we find that the double thigh measures difi'er more or less than in normal forms. 

We use the following process for altering the ordinary trouser pattern. 

For narrow thighs we shape the front from the hip inwardly as shown, at points P and I of 
front and O and S of back, also taking out a little at crotch at K. 

Finding this to be a useful and practical method we use the same process for changing the 
ordinary trcuser pattern for large thighs, according to measure required. Bring the crotch 
out at K and point of fork at G. Also at H and S of back and R at front. 

Thus giving you a practical and useful method for altering the trouser pattern. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



27 




BOW-LEGS 



DIAGRAM No. 10 



28 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

FRAMEWORK AND REGULATION FOR HEIGHTS DIAGRAM NO. 21 

To impress the fundamental points of this system upon the mind of the student, I herewith 
show the lines of construction pertaining to coat and vest drafting. It is necessary for the 
pupil to become thoroughly familiar with the lines of construction in order to proceed with 
the following diagram. 

We also show here how to regulate the scye-depth, waist length and front strap, according to 
the figure being measured. 

The height for this diagram being 5 feet 6 inches, we use this as a standard. For every inch below 
5 feet 6 inches we make the scye-depth and front strap }i inch shorter, the waist length 54 
inch shorter. For every inch above 5 feet 6 inches we make the scye-depth and front strap 
5^ inch longer and the waist length 54 inch longer. 

This is shown by lines marked above and below D, W and F. 

A full table of proportionate measures for heights is given on page 94. 

Arm-blade llyi Front-strap 12% 

Scye-depth 9 Breast 36 

Waist length 16->4 Waist 33 

Shoulder height 3 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth plus 54 inch. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D and W. 

7 from W is }i inch. 

H is located half ways between A and D. 

E on breast line by connecting H and 7. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is 5^ inch and square up. 

3 from 2 is 5^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 
P from X is 154 buttonstand. 

U back from M is %2 breast and square up. 

V back from 2 is 54 breast and square up, locating H. 

C from A is 5^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap measure less the width of neck and back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect point 6 and I. 

Raise neck yi inch at A and shape neck. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

J from E is 54 breast. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2 inches. 

P from K is 154 inches. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



29 




THE FRAMEWORK AND REGULATIONS 
FOR HEIGHTS 



DIAGRAM No. 21 



30 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



HOW TO TAKE A MEASURE. 

To thoroughly understand how to take a measure the process is explained as follows : — 

The sack-coat is removed, as all measures are taken over the vest. 

It would be advisable to adjust an elastic belt around the waist, thus giving you the natural 
waist length. 

Use the small arm-square with tape attached. 

Place the small end on shoulder as represented on Figure 1. This refers to shoulder height, 
as shown by letter S. 

Note. — Reverse square on opposite shoulder to determine whether both shoulder heights are 
alike. 

Insert arm-square as shown on Figure 2 and draw tape over shoulder, touching collar button 
at letter A. This giving you the front-strap measure, as shown by A. 

Here we learn the attitude of the party being measured, which will be explained for dispro- 
portionate forms. 

Adjust the arm-square under the arm and draw tape to center of back as shown by letter D, 
this giving you the arm-blade measure. 

Placing the tape at collar button we measure down to S for shoulder height to D for depth of 
arm, W for waist length, and L for required length. 

Adjust the arm-square snug under the arm as represented on Figure 2 and measure down to L 
a little lower than wrist for inside sleeve length. 

To measure the breast apply the tape around the fullest part of chest as shown at M. 

The waist measure is taken by applying tape over the hips. 

Note. — The breast and waist measure should be taken close for stout forms, and measured easy 
for proportionate forms. 

The seat measured is required when drafting sacks and overcoats and is taken the same way as 
for trousers. 

The process explained above is used for measuring sacks and overcoats, with addition for re- 
quired length. 

For frock coats we add the fashionable waist length only, which is 1^ inches longer than the 
natural waist length. 

THE VEST MEASURE 

Take particular notice that the vest is properly smoothed around the. part being measured. 
The same method explained above is used for measuring for vests. 
We need only know the opening desired and the required length. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



31 





FIGURE No. 1 FIGURE No. 2 

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE 



32 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

S. B. VEST NOTCH COLLAR DIAGRAM NO. 1 1 

The following measurements are used for this diagram : 

Arm-blade 1 Ij^ Front strap 12% 

Shoulder height 3 Breast 36 

Waist length 17% \\'aist 33 

Scye-depth 9 Opening 12 

Full length 25 

Having gone over the form or method for measuring coats and vests, you therefore need only 
add the opening and length to draft the vest. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the depth of arm. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D and W. 

G from W is ^4 inch. 

E is located on breast line by connecting G and S as shown. 

B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is 3^ inch and square up. 

3 from 2 is J^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 2j4 inches for seams. 

U back from M is ^2 breast plus ^ inch, and square up. 

V back from 2 is J4 breast plus 34 i'lch and square up, locating point 8. 

H on breast line halfway between E and 4. 

C from A is ^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is % inch. 

F from 3 is the front-strap less the width of neck of back. 
Connect F and S, giving you point 7. 

Connect point 6 and 7 for shoulder, as shown by broken line. 

Raise neck ^^ inch at A and ^4 '"ch at 6 and 7 and shape neck and shoulder of back above 
broken line. 

9 up from V is 1 inch. 

Shape amihole of back from point 7 through point 9 to point ^ inch below H, as shown. 
Connect F and 8. 

10 from F for width of front shoulder is yi inch less than width of back shoulder. 
C up from 2 is }i breast in armhole. 

12 from C is 1 inch. 

Shape shoulder and armhole of front, as shown. 

X on waist line is located by squaring down from M. 

P from X is 234 inches for seams. 

Connect point 4 with P, shaping front as shown. 

4 from F is the opening 12 inches less the width of neck of back. 

L is >the full length plus 1 inch for seams. 

R from P is 34 waist. 

Z from R is 1 inch. 

16 to G of back is the same as P to Z of front. 

C from Z is 3^ breast. 

Finish bottom of front as shown. 

The back is J4 inch lower at point C. 

Draw parallel lines from j4 inch below point C for point 14, as shown by broken line. 

Raise back ji inch at 14 and finish as shown. 

Shape side seams of the vest from H to Z to point C and from H to 16 to C. 

Allow 3/2 inch for buttonstand. 

Mark pockets and finish as shown. 

NOTCH COLLAR FOR S. B. VEST 

For notch collar divide the opening from F to 4 in half, locating point 18. Point 22 is 

located by squaring in at 18. Apply the width 2 inches or to suit. 
Draw two parallel lines 1 inch up and 1 inch down, extending same 3 inches out or to suit. 
20 from F is 3^4 inches or width of neck of back. 
The width of collar at 20 is I34 inches. 
Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



33 




S. B. VEST 



DIAGRAM No. 11 



34 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 

VEST DRAFTING. 

S. B. VEST, NO COLLAR DIAGFIAM NO. 12 

The following changes are necessary for the No-collar S. B. Vest: 

Continue U line up through F to B. 

B from F is the neckstrap 3)4 inches. 

A from F is ^ inch. 

D from B is the width of neck strap 1J4 inches. 

C from B is the opening, 11 inches. Shape same as indicated by broken line. 

D. B. COLLAR VEST DIAGRAM NO. 13 

The measures used for this diagram are the same as for the S. B. Vest. You need only know 
the opening, which in this case is 14 inches. 

The drafting explanation for this Vest is the same as in Notch Collar Vest, with the following 
changes : 

E up from L at bottom is 2 inches for lower button. 

A up from E is 8 inches, giving you a 4-button \'est, as represented in diagram. 

This method regulates the spacing for buttons desired. 

C from A is 3j4 inches for lap at top. 

D from E is 2 inches for lap at bottom. 

The same can be changed to suit. 

6 from F is the neckstrap, 3% inches. 

G from F is % inch. 

Note. — The width of front shoulder should be measured from G. 

Shape opening from G down to C as shown. 

The bottom of the vest at the lap must be cut so that when folded over the forepart it will take 
the same shape. 

The collar is drafted as follows: 

Divide the opening from 6 to C in half plus 2 inches up for point 7. 

8 from 7 is 1^ inches, or change to suit. 

Apply I3/2 inches up from 7 for lapel point. 

Fix width of shape to suit. 

This diagram illustrates a flat collar. 

Reproduce shape with tracer on separate paper, completing D. B. Collar Vest. 

D. B. NO-COLLAR VEST 

The broken lines represent the D. B. No-Collar Vest. 

J up from L on broken line is 3 inches. 

B from J is 8 inches, or change to suit. 

C from B for lap is 3j4 inches. 

D from J is 1J4 inches, or change to suit. 

Advance 34 inch at 6 at neck strap and shape opening, front edge and bottom of front, as shown 
by broken lines completing diagram No. 13. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



35 





S. B. NO-COLLAR VEST 
DIAGRAM No. 12 



D. B. VEST 
DIAGRAM No. 13 



36 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

S. B. DRESS VEST DIAGRAM NO. 14 

We use the same process and measures for drafting this vest as for S. B. No-Collar Vest. 

We need only know the opening, which in this case is 20 inches. 

B from F is the opening 20 inches, less the wid h of back of neck. 

L from F is the full length. 

E is halfways between F and B. 

C is halfways between E and B. 

Square in at C and fix 2 inches for point D. 

A from F is 5^ inch. 

Shape opening from A past E and D to B as shown by heavy line. 

The width of front shoulder must be measured from A. . 

Space buttons to suit. 

Mark shape of collar as shown by light broken hues. 

Cut small V at E as shown. 

Note. — The heavy broken line indicates the V-shaped dress vest. 

D. B. DRESS VEST DIAGRAM NO. 15 

B from F is the opening. 

L from F is the full length. 

E is halfways between F and B. 

C is halfways between E and B. 

Square in at C and fix 2^4 inches for D. 

A from F, J4 inch. 

G from B for lap is dyi inches or change to suit. 

3 from 2 for lap is 1^ inches or change to suit. 

Shape opening from A through E and D to B to G as shown. 

Shape front from G to 3 to L as shown. i 

Space buttons as shown or change to suit. 

Cut V at E and finish collar as shown by broken line. 

Note. — It must be understood that the process in bringing out the various styles of vests does 
not require the full drafting explanations as the changes are made only in the fronts as 
shown. Therefore the lines for these vests should be brought out as explained in the first 
instruction for vest drafting. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



37 





S. B. DRESS-VEST 
DIAGRAM No. 14 



D. B. DRESS-VEST 
DIAGRAM No. 15 



38 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

STOUT VEST DRAFTING DIAGRAM NO. 16 

The following measures are used when drafting stout S. B. Vests : 

Arm-blade 12j4 Opening 14>4 

Shoulder height 3% Front strap 13% 

Scye-depth 9^4 Breast 40 

Waist length l/J^ Waist 41 

Full length 27 Back-blade 39 

Note. — It must be understood that the back-blade is not a measure taken, but reduced from the 
breast according to the arm-blade. I find this method essential, therefore I will explain 
how this is done. For example, we have for this diagram 40 breast and 12^4 arm-blade. 
We use the ordinary square. Using the long end, we locate 12jX inches and then, revers- 
ing the square, we find that it shows 18.;4 by the ^. We now add 3 spaces on the 7^, giving 
us 19^ by the %, which is equal to 39. This gives us the back-blade. This method 
is used for stouts only. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height, or Yq back-blade. 

D from A is the scye depth, or 1/2 back-blade. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D, and W. 

G from W is 3^ inch. 

Connect points G and S. 

E is located on breast line. 

B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is 3^ inch, and square up. 

3 from 2 is 3^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 23/2 inches for seams. 

U back from M is ^o breast plus 3^4 inch, and square up. 

V back from E is 34 back-blade plus 34 inch, and square up, locating point 8. 

H is halfways between E and 4. 

C from A is 3^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is % inch. 

F from 3 is the front-strap less the width of neck of back. 

7 is located by connecting F and S. 
Connect 7 and 6 as shown by broken line. 

Raise neck ^ inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back. 

9 up from V is 1 inch. 

Shape arm-hole of back from point 7 through 9 to point ^ inch below point H. 
Connect F and 8. 

10 from F for width of front shoulder is 34 '"^''i less than width of back shoulder. 
C up from 2 is 3-^ breast in arm-hole. 

12 from C is 1 inch. 

Shape shoulder and arm-hole of front as shown. 

X on waist line is located by squaring down from M. 

P from X is 23^ inches. 

Connect points 4 and P and shape front edge as shown. 

4 from F is the opening lAyi inches less the width of neck of back. 

Continue for length 27 inches plus 1 inch for seams, to locate point L. 

R from P is one-quarter full waist. 

Z from R is 1 inch. 

16 from G is the same as from P to Z of front. 

Connect L and C. 

C from Z is 34 breast on side seam of vest. 

Finish bottom of front as shown. 

The back side length is the same at C as the front side length. 

Square across at point C at bottom of back to locate point 14. 

Raise back }^ inch at 14 and finish as shown. 

Shape the side seam of front and back from H to Z to C and from H to 16 to C. 

Allow 3^ inch for button-stand. 

We now mark lower pocket to enable us to produce the opening which gives us the stout effect. 

The height of the lower pocket is 33-4 inches at the side and 4 inches up from 18 to 20. 

The lower pocket is cut into point 20 as shown by heavy line. 

Now lap over % inch at point 18 as indicated by broken line. 

This opens clam at side and gives you the desired stout effect. 

Mark upper pocket, completing Diagram No. 16. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



39 




STOUT VEST 



DIAGFIAM No. 16 



40 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 



CONSERVATIVE S. B. SACK 
DIAGRAM NO. 17 



The following measures will be used for this Diagram : 



Armblade IV/i 

Shoulder height 3 

Scye-depth 9 

Waist length 16^ 

Full length 30 



Front strap 12 J4 

Inside sleeve length 18 

Breast 36 

Waist 33 

Seat 39 



Our method for teaching the student vest drafting, first is to 
familiarize him with the fundamental points pertaining to 
coat drafting, enabling him to proceed on the same lines. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth plus % inch. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is J4 i"ch. 

15 is located by squaring down from 7. 

H is halfways between A and D. 

E on breast line is located by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is H inch, and square up. 

3 from 2 IS Yz inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1J4 inches for button stand. 

U back from M is M.2 breast, and square up. 

V back from 2 is J4 breast, and square up, locating 8. 

C from A\s Yi breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

Raise neck Y2 inch at A and shape to 6. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect points 6 and I. 

Raise neck Yz inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 

as shown. 
At point I we regulate the width of shoulder desired. 
T is located by connecting H and B. 
O from 7 is l^ breast. Allow Y2 inch from O for width of 

back for conservative coat, or change to suit. 
N from 15 is the same as E from V. 
Connect advanced point O and N. 
At T fix >4 inch out. 

Shape the back from I to T down to N for side seam of back. 
C from 2 is ^ breast in armhole. 
12 from C is 1 inch. 
Connect points F and 8. 



Advance Yz inch at point F. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is ^ inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 

Connect points 9 and 12. 

Shape shoulder and armhole of front as shown. 

C from F is ^ breast on U line. 

Square out at C for neck and shape as desired. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2 inches. 

P from K is 1J4 inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

10 from D is % sleeve length less Y2 inch, giving you depth 
of pocket. 

Square out from 10, giving you point Z. 

Connect 7 and Z and square down from Z. 

J from E is ^ breast. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

C from R is 5^ waist plus Y2 inch. 

Y from O is % seat, and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D. 

Connect points G with C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 

length plus J4 inch from C to locate point 14. 
Shape side of front from T to C to 14 as shown. 
The dip of front from Z to 11 is the same as from C to 14, 

or change to suit. 

Connect points 11 and 14. 

16 from F is 154 inches for crease line on lapel. 

Mark length of shape desired, locating point 18. 

20 from 18 is 2Yz inches for width of gorge, or change to 

suit. 
Finish shape of lapel as desired. 
Finish front edge and bottom of forepart as shown. 
At point 28 draw a line parallel to bottom of front and finish 

pocket as shown. 
Mark welt as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 
The notch in back is % breast up from V. 
Space buttons for 3-button sack. 



COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back plus Yz inch. 

Square up and down from 22. 

24 from 22 is \Yz inches for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is 1J4 inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown, completing Diagram 17. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



41 




S. B. SACK 



DIAGRAM No. 17 



42 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

FORM-FITTING S. B. SACK DIAGRAM NO. 18 

Understanding that the pupil is familiar with the lines of construction pertaining to the Con- 
servative S. B. Sack, I proceed in this manner to explain the necessary changes for this 
Form Fitting S. B. Sack. 

These changes are trifling but essential, and do not require the full drafting explanation. 

1 have, however, brought out a complete diagram to enlighten the pupil as to the results of 

these changes. 

7 from W is 1 inch. 

Shape center line of back as shown. 

2 from B is ^ inch. This is done in order to allow for seams for V cut in under-arm. 
M from E is one-half full breast plus J4 inch extra. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams and allow 1% inches for buttonstand. 

U back from M is Yio breast and square up. 

Advance neck at F J/ inch and shape neck and lapel as shown for 2 button sack or change 
to suit. 

O from 7 is Ys breast, no allowance being necessary here for shaped coat. 

C from R is ^ waist and no allowance being necessary for shaped coat. 

Shape side of back and front as shown. 

K from X is 1^ inches. Allow 1^ inches for buttonstand. 

Collar is finished by raising at notch % inch as shown by broken line. This being necessary in 
order that the collar draw a long roll shape. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



43 




iiUm 



FORM FITTING S. B. SACK 



DIAGRAM No. 18 



44 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

D. B. SACK DIAGRAM NO. 19 

My method for showing you this diagram for D. B. Sack is to enable you to produce this draft in 
the most simplified form. 

The D. B. Sack is drafted the same way as the S. B. Sack, with the following additions: 

P from 4 is 3 inches for buttonstand or lap. 

P from K on waist line is 3 inches for buttonstand or lap. 

Connect P with P as shown by broken line for front edge. 

C from F is J4 breast on U line and square out. 

16 from F is 1J4 inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired. 

Connect same with 16 locating 18. 

20 from 18 is 2^ inches for width of gorge. 

Finish shape and lapel as shown. 

Shape front of forepart, taking off ji inch at point 11. 

The width of buttonstand is regulated according to style and taste. 

The allowance in this diagram is 3 inches for lap. 

Therefore the width of the buttonstand will be 6 inches. Deduct % inch for seam and button- 
hole and we have a finished buttonstand of 5% inches. 

Cut V under arm if desired. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is the width of neck of back plus yi inch, 

24 from 22 is 1}4 inches for collarstand. 

26 from 22 is Ifi inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown, completing diagram No. 19. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



45 




D. B. SACK 



DIAGRAM No. 19 



46 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

TUXEDO SACK DIAGRAM NO. 20 

The following measure will be used for this diagram : 

Arm-blade 11 14 Front strap 12^ 

Shoulder height 3 Breast 36 

Scye-depth 9 Waist 32 

Waist length 16^ Seat 38 

Full length 29 Sleeve length 18 

The Tuxedo Sack is drafted on the same lines as the form-fitting S. B. Sack. The changes are 

trivial but essential and do not require the full drafting explanation. 
The changes for this draft will be noticed by the letters on this diagram. 
M from E is one-half full breast plus ^ inch. 

4 from M is 2^ inches and allow 1J4 inches for buttonstand for point P. 
U back from M is M2 breast, and square up. 

Advance neck i< inch at F and shape as shown for peaked lapel. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 134 inches and allow 1^4 inches for buttonstand for P. 
Connect P with P with straight ruled line. 
Mark length of shape desired. 
11 from Z is 1 inch less than C to 14. 
15 from 11 is 1J4 inches. 

Shape lapel and front edge of forepart as shown. 
The following changes are necessary for Shawl Collar Tuxedo Sack : 
20 from 18 is 2^ inches. 
P from K is 2 inches. 
Shape shawl as shown by broken line. 
Raise collar % inch at point 20 and shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



47 




^z^MDW 



TUXEDO SACK 



DIAGRAM No. 20 



48 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



SLEEVE DRAFTING. 

The drafting measure which gives us the height of the top-sleeve is gained by measuring the 
length of armhole from the front notch to the back notch by the halves. 

The width of sleeve is gained by measuring the scye-depth. 

Scye-depth, 9 inches. 

Drafting measure, 18. 

Inside sleeve length, 18. 

Square forward and down from A. 

O from A is yi drafting measure. 

L from A is the inside length. 

V up from O is ^ drafting measure. 

H is half ways between O and L. 

Square forward from V, O, H and L. 

J from A is scye-depth, 9 inches. 

Square down at J, locating points 1, 2, 3. 

4 and 5 are 1 inch on both sides of point 1. 

6 and 7 are 1 inch on both sides of point 3. 
Connect 4 and 6 and 5 and 7. 

8 up from 1 is 1 inch. 

D from 8 is the scye-depth, 9 inches. 

Connect D and 8. 

Connect O and J, giving you points 9 and 10. 

Draw a straight line through 9, giving you points O and 7. 

7 is raised i^ inch above A line for head of top-sleeve. 
Connect 8 with point ^ inch advanced from point 10. 
12 from 10 is % drafting measure. 

Shape head of top-sleeve as shown. 

14 from 3 is >^ breast, or change to suit. 

Here we regulate the width of sleeve at wrist as desired. 

16 from 14 is 1^ inches. 

Shape inside length of sleeve from 4 to 6 and from 5 to 7, coming ^ inch at elbow. 

Shape bottom of sleeve. 

Shape outseam of top-sleeve from D through H to 16. 

20 from D is 1 inch for top of under-sleeve. 

Connect Q with 20. 

18 up from Q is 1 inch. 

Allowing J4 i'lch at 20 for a seam, shape under-sleeve through 18 to % inch up from 5. 

Shape outseam of under-sleeve from 20 to H. 

Finish diagram by marking notch in top-sleeve at 8. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



49 




SLEEVE 



16 

DIAGRAM No. 22 



50 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING, 

HIGH SHOULDER FORM DIAGRAM NO. 23 

Understanding that the pupil is familiar with the lines of construction pertaining to the S. B. 
Sack, I proceed in this manner to explain the changes necessary for this diagram. Although 
the changes are essential, they do not require the full drafting explanation. 

The following measures are necessary for this diagram : 

Arm-blade II14 Front strap 11^ 

Scye-depth 8y2 Breast 36 

Shoulder height 2J4 Waist 32 

Waist length 16>4 Seat 39 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D and W. 

7 from W is |4 inch. 

H is half ways between A and D. 

Connect 7 and H locating E on breast line. 

B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is >4 inch. 

3 from 2 is yi inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1^ inches for buttonstand. 

U back from M is Mo breast. Advance yi inch from U and square up. 

V back from 2 is 34 breast and square up, locating 8. 
C from A is yi breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is ^4 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Raise neck J4 inch at A and % inch at I and shape neck and shoulder as shown. 

O from 7 is ^ breast. Allow 54 inch from O for full width of back. 

T is located by connecting B and H. 

Advance 54 inch at T and shape side seam of back from I to T to O as shown. 

Connect F and 8 for front shoulder. 

Advance J4 inch at F. 

9 from width of front shoulder is J/j inch less than width of back shoulder. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2 inches. 

P from K is 1 54 inches for buttonstand. 

Shape neck and front edge as shown. 

J from E is 54 breast. 

Square down from J, locating R. 

C from R is 54 waist plus 5^ inch. 

Shape sideseam of front as shown. 

SLEEVE 

Scye-depth, 854. Drafting measure, 18 by the halves. 

The drafting measure for this sleeve is gained by measuring the length of arm-hole from front 

notch to back notch by the halves, giving us the height of top-sleeve. 
The width of sleeve is gained by measuring the scye-depth by the halves. 
O from A is 54 drafting measure. 

V from O is 54 drafting measure. 
Square out from A, V and O. 

T from A is the scye-depth. 

D from 8 is the scye-depth for width of top-sleeve. 

The head of top-sleeve is raised 54 inch from 7 as shown. 

Shape head of top-sleeve from D through to 8 as shown. 

Complete sleeve as explained in Diagram No. 22. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



51 




HIGH SHOULDER FORM SACK 
DIAGRAM No. 23 



HIGH SHOULDER FORM 
FIGURE No. 23 



52 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

STOOPING. ROUND BACK FORM DIAGRAM NO. 24 

This form shows us a broad, round back with a flat chest. 

The scye-depth is longer, the front strap shorter and the arm-blade larger than the normal figure 

Arm-blade ,12 Front strap 12 

Shoulder height 3)4 Breast 36 

Scye-depth 9^ Waist 34 

Waist length ._ Yjy. Seat 39 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D and W. 

7 from W is Y\ inch. 

H is half way between A and D. 

Connect 7 and H, continuing line to full length of back. 

E is located on breast line. 

B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is J/2 inch, as we do not show an underarm cut in this diagram. 

3 from 2 is 3^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1^ inches of buttonstand. 
U back from M is ^o breast less ^ inch and square up. 
V back from 2 is J4 breast and square up, locating 8. 
C from A is Y^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Raise neck ^ inch plus )4 inch extra for stooping attitude and shape neck and shoulder, 

curving down 34 inch at point I. Shape back from A to H, rounding ofif 34 inch at A 

for medium round back. 
The rounding off of this back should be regulated according to the figure. 
T is located by connecting H and B. 

Fix y^ inch out at T and curve back from I to T as shown. 
O from 7 \% Yi breast. Allow Y^ inch for full width of back. 

Shape side seam of back from T, curving out a little more than normal down to waist as shown. 
Connect F and 8 for front shoulder. 
Advance )4 inch at F. 

The width of front shoulder at 9 is ^ inch less than back shoulder. 
Curve front shoulder from ^ inch below line to F as shown. 
Shape arm-hole as shown. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
K from X is 2)4 inches. 
P from K is 1J4 inches. 
J from E is 34 breast. 
Square down from J for R. 
C from R is 3^ waist plus Y^ inch. 

Shape side seam of front, curving out more than normal down to waist as shown. 
Shape neck as shown. Also cut V in neck. 
Shape front edge of coat, coming in 34 inch at breast. 
The notch in front arm-hole is 1 inch up from 3. 
The notch in back arm-hole is 34 scye-depth. 
10 is 34 below notch in back. 
Note: — Connect 10 and H. 

Lap over 34 inch at 10 for extreme round back as shown by broken line. 
This method should be used for extreme round backs only. 
Note. — The height for this diagram is 5 feet 6 inches. 
On this diagram we illustrate how to regulate the depth of arm, waist length and front strap, 

according to the height of party being measured. 
5 feet 5 inches for height. For 5 feet 7 inches. 

Depth of arm is 34 shorter. Depth of arm is Y% lower. 

Waist length, ^ inch shorter. Waist length, Ya inch lower. 

Front strap, Yn inch shorter. Front strap, Yi inch longer. 

For following heights we regulate accordingly. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



53 



{A 



i.mf^ 



r 



^^\ 



A 




S. B. SACK. STOOPING, ROUND BACK FORM 
DIAGRAM No. 24 



Figure No. 24 



54 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 

S. B. SACK FOR ERECT FORMS DIAGRAM NO. 25 

This form shows us a narrow back with a prominent chest. 

The scye-depth is shorter, front strap longer and the arm-blade smaller than in normal forms 

The following measures are used for this diagram : 

Arm-blade 11 1^ Front strap 13 

Shoulder height 3 Breast 36 

Scye-depth 8j4 Waist 32 

Waist length I614 Seat 39 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

Square forward from S, D and W. 

7 from W is 1 inch. 

H is half ways between D and A. 

E is located on breast line by connecting 7 and A. 

B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is % inch. 

3 from 2 is yi inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus ^ inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1^ inches for buttonstand. 

U baclv from M is ^2 breast plus 34 inch and square up. 

V is J4 breast back from 2 plus 14 inch and square up, locating 8. 

C from A is J/^ breast. 

5 from C is 1J4 inches. 

6 from 5 is 154 inches. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I as shown by broken line. 

Raise neck 1/2 inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back as shown. 

O from 7 is y3 breast. Allow J4 inch from O for full width of back. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

Advance J4 inch at T. Shape back from I to T to O as shown. 

Connect F and 8 for front shoulder. 

Advance ^ inch at F. 

The width of front shoulder for point 9 is Yz inch less than back shoulder. 

C from 2is y& breast. 

12 from C is I54 inches. 

Connect 9 and 12. 

Shape shoulder and arm-hole of front as shown. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 1% inches. 

P from K is 1J4 inches. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

J from E is 34 breast. 

Square down from J, locating R. 

C from F is >^ breast. Square out at C and shape neck and lapel as shown. 

C from 'R is Yi waist plus Ya inch. 

Y from O is % seat and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D less 1 inch. 

Shape side seam of front as shown. 

Finish diagram as shown. 

The arm-hole in this diagram must be worked in as shown by zig-zag line in front. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



55 



^\ 



\^ 




S. B. SACK ERECT FORM 



DIAGRAM No. 25 



ERECT FORM 
Figure No. 25 



56 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 



STOUT S. B. SACK 
DIAGRAM NO. 26 

The following measures are used when drafting Stout S. B. 
Sack; 

Armblade 12^ Breast 40 

Shoulder height 3% Waist 41 

Scye-depth 9^ Seat 44 

Waist length 17 Sleeve length 17% 

Full length 31 Back-blade 39 

Front strap 13^ 

It must be understood that the back-blade is not a measure 
taken but reduced from the breast according to the arm- 
blade. I find this method essential, therefore I will ex- 
plain how it is done. For example, we have for this Dia- 
gram 40 breast and 12'/2 armblade. We use the ordinary 
square; using the long end we locate IZyi inches and then 
reversing the square we find that it shows 18|4 by the %. 
We now add 3 spaces on the %, giving us 19^ on the %, 
which is equal to 39, thus giving us the back-blade 39. 

This method is used for stouts only. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth, or Yz back-blade. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is 54 inch. 

15 is located by squaring down from point 7. 

H is halfways between A and D. ' . 

E is located by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is ^ inch, and square up. 

3 from 2 is }4 inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus J4 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

D from 4 is 1J4 inches for button stand. 

U back from M is Vio breast plus % inch, and square up. 

V back from 2 is ^ back-blade plus 14 inch, and square up, 
locating 8. 

C from A is 5^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from S is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap, less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Raise neck H inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 
as shown. 

At point I we regulate the width of shoulder. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

O from 7 is % breast. Allow from O 14 inch for stout sack, 
or change to suit. 

N from IS is the same as E from V. 

Connect advanced point O with N. 

At T fix % inch out and shape back side seam from I to T 
to N. 

C from 2 is J/^ breast in armhole. 



12 from C is 1J4 inches. 
Connect points F and 8. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is Yz inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 

Connect points 9 and 12. 

Shape shoulder and armhole of front as shown. 

C from F is J^ breast on U line, and square out. 

Shape neck as desired. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2% inches. 

P from K is 1J4 inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

10 from D is % sleeve length less 1/2 inch, giving you depth of 
pocket. 

Square out at 10, giving you point Z. 

Connect 7 with Z and square down from Z. 

J from E is H back-blade. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

C from R is H waist plus Y inch. 

Y from O is % seat, and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D. 

Connect points G and C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 
length plus ]4 inch from C to locate point 14. 

Shape side of front from T to C to 14 as shown. 

The dip of front from Z to 11 is the same as from C to 14. 

Connect 11 and 14. 

At point 28 draw a line parallel to bottom of front. 

Mark pocket as shown, locating point 30 at end of pocket. 

Connect 32 with 30. 

Mark 1 inch up for lap at 32. 

The V under arm is halfways between J and B. 

Mark V and shape out % inch as shown for normal sizes. 

16 from F is 1J4 inches for crease line of lapel. 

Mark length of shape desired. 

20 from 18 for width of gorge is 2J4 inches. 

Finish shape of lapel as desired. 

Finish front edge and bottom of forepart as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back is J4 back-blade up from V. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark welt as shown. 

Note. — When draft is completed we proceed by cutting in V 
under arm down to pocket. Then into length of pocket to 
30. Cut in from 32 to 30 and lap over 1 inch as shown on 
small Diagram. 

The loss of dip of front caused by lapping over at 32 should 
be added to bottom of forepart. This method opens the V 
under arm. Also, the pocket at the same time, thus giving 
you the required stout effect. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back plus Y inch. 

24 from 22 is 1J4 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is U/i inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



57 




DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING 
STOUT EFFECT 

DIAGRAM No. 26 



STOUT S. B. SACK 



DIAGRAM No. 26 



58 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 



STOOPING CORPULENT FORM 
DIAGRAM NO. 27 

The following measures are used for this diagram: 

Armblade 13 Waist 45 

Shoulder height 3^ Seat 46 

Scye-depth 10^ Length 31 

Waist length llVi Back-blade 41 

Front strap 13^ Sleeve length VYz 

Breast 42 

We use the same process in bringing out the back-blade for 
this Diagram as explained in Diagram No. 21. 

The following changes are necessary for the stooping corpu- 
lent form : 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from .\ is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is I4 inch. 

IS is located by squaring down from 7. 

H is halfways between D and A. 

E is located by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is Y^ inch, and square up. 

3 from 2 is yi inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus 14 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is \14 inches for button stand. 

U back from M is yi2 breast, and square up. 

V back from 2 is % back-blade plus }i inch, and square up, 
locating 8. 

C from A is Yi breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Raise neck J/j inch plus J4 inch for stooping attitude, and 
shape neck and shoulder of back as shown. 

Shape back from H to A, rounding off % inch at A for 
stooping attitude. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

O from 7 is % breast, and allow J4 inch from O for width 
of back, or change to suit. 

N from 15 is the same as V from E. 

Connect advance point O and N. 

At T fix ^ inch out and shape back from I to T to N as 
shown. 

C from 12 is % breast in armhole. 

12 from C is 1J4 inches. 

Connect F and 8. 

Advance J^ inch at F. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is Y inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 



Connect 9 and 12. 

Shape shoulder and armhole of front as shown. 

C from F is J^ breast on U line, and square out. 

Shape neck as desired. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2% inches. 

P from K is IK inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

10 from D is % sleeve length less ^ inch, giving you depth 
of pocket. 

Square out at 10, giving you point Z. 

Connect 7 and Z, and square down from Z. 

J from E is K back-blade. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

C from R is ^ waist plus 'A inch. 

Y from O is % seat, and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D. 

Connect points G with C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 
length plus J4 inch from C to 14. 

Shape side of front from C to 14, shaping off J^ inch at 14. 

The dip of front from Z to 11 is the same as from C to 14. 

Connect 11 and 14 and shape bottom of forepart. 

16 from F is 1J4 inches for crease line of lapel. 

Mark length of shape desired and connect same with 16, lo- 
cating 18. 

20 from 18 is 2'/2 inches for width of gorge. 

Finish shape of lapel desired, curving slightly in at top button. 

Shape front edge of forepart, coming out J/2 inch at B of 
waist and J<2 inch at 10 line to bottom of forepart as shown. 

This allowance is made owing to extreme corpulency of the 
stout. 

At point 28 draw a line parallel to bottom of front. 

Mark for pockets as shown, locating point 30 at end of pocket. 

Connect 32 with 30. Mark 1% inches down from 32 for lap. 

The V under arm is halfways between J and B. 

Mark V to pocket as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is % back-blade up from V. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark welt as shown. 

Note. — When draft is completed we proceed by cutting in V 
under arm down to pocket then into length of pocket to 30. 

Cut in from 32 to 30 and lap over ll4 inches as shown on 
small Diagram, No. 26. 

The loss of dip of front caused by lapping over at 32 should 
be added to bottom of forepart. 

The above method opens the V under arm, also the pocket, 
at the same time giving you the required stout effect. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back plus >2 inch. 

Lower notch ]4 inch at 22. 

24 from 22 is 1J4 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is l-M inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



59 




STOOPING, CORPULENT, 
STOUT 

FIGURE No. 27 



S. B. SACK. STOOPING, CORPULENT FORM 



DIAGRAM No. 27 



60 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COAT DRAFTING. 



ERECT STOUT FORM 
DIAGRAM NO. 28 

The erect stout form shows us a tendency for a hollow waist, 
prominent seat and a longer front strap. 

The following measures are used for this diagram : 



Front strap 13^4 

Breast 40 

Waist 40 

Seat 45 



Armblade 12J4 

Scye-depth 9^ 

Waist length 17 

Shoulder height 3% 

Full length 31 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, L, and W. 

7 from W is 54 inch. 

15 is located by squaring down from 7. 

H is half ways between A and D. 

E is located on breast line by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is J4 '"ch. 

3 from 2 is 5/2 inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus J4 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1 54 inches for button stand. 

U back from M is ^2 breast plus }i inch, and square out. 

V back from 2 is 54 back-blade plus 14 inch, and square up, 
locating 8. 

C from A is Ys breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap, less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Raise neck 1/2 inch at A and shape neck and shoulder as shown. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

O from 7 is % breast. Allow 1/2 inch from O for full width 
of back. 

N from 15 is the same as E from V. 

At T fix J4 inch out and shape back side seam from I to T 
down to N. 

C from 2 is J^ breast in armhole. 

12 from C is 1% inches. 

Connect F and 8. 

9 for width of front shoulder is yi inch less than width of 
back shoulder. 

Connect 9 and 12. 

Shape shoulder and armhole of front as shown. 

C from F is }/^ breast on U line, and square out. 



Shape neck as desired. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2 inches. 

P from K is 1}4 inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

O from D is % sleeve length, less J^ inch, giving you depth 
of pocket. 

Square out at O, giving you point Z. 

Connect 7 with X and square down from Z, locating point 32. 

J from E is J/2 back-blade. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

C from R is }^ waist plus J^ inch. 

Y from O is % seat, and square down. 

G from Y is 1 inch less than W from D. 

Connect points G and C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 
length plus 54 inch from C to 14. 

Shape side of front from T to C, curving well out at C, 
coming in 54 inch at 14. 

Extend Z line to edge of front and connect same with 32, as 
shown by broken line. 

The dip of front from Z to 11 is the same as from C to 14. 

Connect 11 with 14 and shape bottom as shown. 

16 from F is 1}4 inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired and connect same with 16, lo- 
cating 18. 

20 from 18 is 254 inches, or width of gorge. 

Finish shape of lapel, as desired, curving slightly in at top 
button. 

Shape edge of front as shown. 

At 28 draw a line parallel to bottom of front. 

Mark pocket as shown, locating 30 at end of pocket. 

Connect 11 with 30, as shown by broken line. 

Mark I54 inches back from 11 for lap. 

The V under arm is halfways between J and B. 

Mark V to pocket as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is 54 back-blade up from V. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Note. — When draft is completed, we proceed by cutting in V 
under arm down to pocket, then into length of pocket at 30. 

Cut in front from 30 to 11, and lap over 1% inches as shown 
on small Diagram, No. 26. 

The above tnethod opens the V under arm, also the pocket, at 
the same time giving you the required stout effect. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back. 

Lower notch 54 inch at 22. 

24 from 22 is 154 inches, for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is 1^4 inches, for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



61 




S. B. SACK. ERECT FORM 



DIAGRAM No. 28 



62 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING 

SEMI-FIT S. B. OVERCOAT 
DIAGRAM NO. 29 



The measures for an overcoat should be taken over the vest 
and drafted 2 sizes larger. 



Armblade 12 

Shoulder height 3}4 

Scye-depth 9^ 

Waist length 17^ 

Full length 44 



Front strap 12J4 

Breast 38 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

Sleeve length 1854 



Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is ^ inch. 

15 is located by squaring down from 7. 

H is halfways between A and D. 

E on breast line is located by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is 14 inch, and square up. 

3 from 2 is 54 inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus J4 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 2J4 inches for button stand. 
U back from M is M2 breast, and square up. 
V back from 2 is J4 breast plus J4 inch, and square up, locat- 
ing point 8. 
C from A is J^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

Point I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I as shown by broken line. 

Raise neck ^ inch above broken line at A and shape neck 
and shoulder, raising shoulder ^ inch at point I. This 
method gives you room on shoulder for overcoat pads. 

At point I we regulate the width of shoulder as desired. 

Connect points H and B, locating point T. 

O from 7 is % breast. Allow 1 inch from O for width of 
back, or change to suit. 

N from IS is the same as E from V plus 2 inches. 

Connect advance point O with N. 

At T fix >^ inch out and shape back from I to T down to N. 

C from 2 is J/^ breast in armhole. 

12 from C is 1J4 inches. 

Connect F and 8. 

Advance J^ inch at F. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is J4 inch less than 



width of back shoulder. 
Connect 9 and 12. 

-Shape shoulder and armhole of front as shown. 
C from F is ^ breast on U line. 

Square out at point C for neck and shape neck as shown. 
Square down at M on breast line for point X on waist line. 
K from X is 2 inches. 
P from K is 2J4 inches for button stand. 
Connect P with P for front edge, locating P at bottom. 

10 from D is % sleeve length less yi inch, giving you depth 
of pocket. 

Square out at point 10, giving you point Z. 

Connect 7 and Z. 

J from E is J^ breast. 

Square down at J, giving you point R on waist line. 

C from R is 3^^ waist plus 54 inch. 

Y from O is i^ seat, and square down. 

G from Y is the same length as W from D. 

Connect points G and C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 

length plus % inch from C to locate point 14. 
Shape side seam of front from T to C to 14 as shown. 
17 from P is f^ inch. 
Connect 17 with P on waist line. 

19 from 17 is ^ inch. 

Shape the front edge from lower button to 19. This is done 
for the working in of front. 

11 from 19 is 6 inches. 
Connect 11 with 14. 

Shape bottom of front as shown. 

16 from F is 1^ inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired, locating point 18. 

20 from 18 is 2.)4 inches for width of gorge, or change to suit. 
Finish shape and lapel as desired. 

.At point 28 draw a line parallel to Z and 7 line, and finish 
pocket as shown. 

Mark welt as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch from point 3. 

The notch in back is Y2 scye-depth. 

The V under arm is located halfways between 2 and J. 

Space buttons as desired. 



COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back plus Vz inch. 

24 from 22 is lyi inches for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is 2 inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown, completing diagram No. 29. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



63 



P() 




SEMI-FIT S. B. OVERCOAT 



DIAGRAM No. 29 



64 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING 



S. B. BOX OVERCOAT 
DIAGRAM NO. 30 



The measure for this overcoat should be taken over the vest 
and drafted 2 sizes larger. 

Armblade 12 Front strap 12J4 

Shoulder height 3^ Sleeve length 18J4 

Scye-depth 9^ Breast 38 

Waist length WA Waist 34 

Full length 42 Seat 40 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scj'e-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is % inch. 

H is halfways between D and A. 

Connect 7 and H, locating IS at bottom. 

E is located on breast line. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is J4 '"ch, and square up. 

V back from 2 is 54 breast plus J4 inch. Square up and 
down, locating points Q and 8. 

10 from D is 54 inch. 

Connect 10 with V for balanced breast line. 

Star points V and Q are the balance points for this Box 
Overcoat. 

3 from 2 is H inch on balanced breast line. 

M from E is one-half full breast on balanced breast line. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 2% inches for button stand. 

U back from M is Vn breast, and square up. 

C from A is !4 breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1J4 inches. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

The shoulder is raised 1 inch above point I for Box Overcoat 
only. 

Raise neck ^ inch at A and shape neck and shoulder as indi- 
cated by broken line. 

Raise neck ^ inch above broken line at A and 6, and shape 
neck and shoulder, raising shoulder % inch extra at point I. 

This allowance gives you room on shoulder for overcoat pad. 

At point I regulate the width of shoulder as desired. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

R from T is 1 inch. 

N from IS is Zyi inches more than E from B for medium box 
effect. 

Connect N with point R as shown by broken line. 

For full Box Overcoat effect we show an additional width of 
back by allowing |4 'uch at point R and 34 '"ch at N. 

Shape back from I to R to N as shown. 

C from 2 IS y^ breast in armhole. 

12 from C is lJ/2 inches. 



Advance 54 inch at F. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is H inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 

Connect 9 with 12 and shape shoulder and armhole of front 
as shown. 

C from ¥ \s % breast, and square out. 

Shape neck as desired. 

11 from W is 54 inch up. 

Connect 11 with Q for balanced waist line. 

X on balanced waist line is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 1J4 inches. 

P from K is 2% inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P, locating P at bottom for front edge. 

13 from P is ^ inch. 
Connect 13 with P on waist line. 

14 from 13 is 54 inch. 

Shape front edge from lower button to 14 as shown. 

This is done for the working in of the front. 

16 from 14 is 6 inches for dip of front. 

The sweep for this Box Overcoat is 68 inches. Therefore, 
one-half of the width of the sweep for this Box Overcoat 
is 34 inches. 

Connect points 16 and 15 with straight line. 

To locate point 17, we measure the width of bottom of back 
and applying the same at point 16 we continue for 34 inches 
for point 17. 

Measure the side length from R to N and apply the same plus 
1/4 inch from R to 17, finishing side of front as shown. 

18 from F is lJ/2 inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired, locating point 19. 

20 from 19 is 254 inches for width of gorge, or change to suit. 

Finish shape of lapel as desired. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from point 3. 

The notch in back is 54 scye-depth from V. 

Space buttons as desired. 

The pocket is located 12^ inches down from armhole and 4 
inches from side of front. 

Mark pocket parallel to bottom of front. 

Mark welt as shown. 



COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

21 from 18 is width of neck of back plus 54 inch. 

22 from 21 is 1 54 inches for collar stand. 

2i from 21 is 2 inches for width of collar as shown. 

Shape collar as shown, thus completing diagram No. 30. 

Note. — Our method for balancing Box Overcoats for straight 
and erect forms only is to apply this method in the follow- 
ing manner: 

At O we draw a line parallel to breast line of front I '4 inches 
below first buttonhole. Crease here a line -'i inch above O 
to nothing, as shown. 

Side length that is lost by creasing at O is allowed at bottom 
below 17, as shown. This method must not be used for 
stooped forms. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



65 




S. B. BOX OVERCOAT 



DIAGRAM No. 30 



66 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING 

D. B. ULSTER OVERCOAT 
DIAGRAM NO. 31 



The measures for this overcoat are taken over the vest and 
cut 2 sizes larger on ordinary goods and 3 sizes larger on 
heavyweight goods such as Chinchilla. 

Armblade 12 Front strap 12|4 

Shoulder height 3% Sleeve length ISyi 

Scye-depth 95^ Breast 38 

Waist length U'A Waist 35 

Full length SO Seat 41 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W and L. 

7 from W is Yz inch. 

IS is located by squaring down from point 7. 

H is halfways between A and D. 

E on breast line is located by connecting 7 and H. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is J4 inch. 

3 from 2 \s Yz inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 3J4 inches for button stand. 
U on breast line is Vio breast back from M and square up. 
V back from 2 is J4 breast plus ;4 inch, and square up, locat- 
ing point 8. 
C from A is 5^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from S is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I as shown by broken line. 

Raise neck Yz inch at A and connect with 6 as shown by 
broken line. 

Raise neck Yz inch above broken line at A and 6 and shape 

neck and shoulder, raising shoulder J4 '"ch at point I. 
This method gives you room on shoulder for overcoat pad. 
At point I we regulate the width of shoulder desired. 
T is located by connecting H and B. 

O from 7 is % breast. Allow 1 inch from O for width of 
back. 

N from IS is the same as E from V plus 2 inches. 

Connect advanced point O and N. 

Fix Yz inch out at T and shape side seam of back from I to 
T to N. 

C from 2 is 5^ breast in armhole. 
12 from C is \Y inches in armhole. 
Connect points F and 8. 
Advance Yz inch at F. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is Yz inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 



Connect 9 and 12. Shape shoulder and armhole of front as 
shown. 

C from F is J^ breast plus Js inch. 

Square out at C and shape neck. 

Note. — Particular care must be taken that the neck must meas- 
ure 9Y inches for a 36 size from A to 6 and from F to 18. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2 inches. 

Connect K and 4 with curve ruler, locating 18 on neck line. 

P from K is 3Yz inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge, locating 20 on neck line. 

The opening for V at neck is advanced from length of neck 
at 18 and is Yz inch wide and ZYz inches deep. 

At point 20 raise shape Yz inch above neck line and shape lapel 
as shown. 

10 from D is % sleeve length, giving you depth of pocket. 
Square out at point 10 for point Z. 

Connect points 7 and Z. 

J from E is i/^ breast, and square down, giving you point R 
on waist line. 

C from R is ^^ waist plus Yz inch. 

Y from O is Yn seat, and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D. 

Connect G and C. 

Measure side length of back from O to N and apply the same 
length plus J4 inch from C to 14. 

Shape side seam of front from T to C to 14 as shown. 

17 from P is J4 '"ch at bottom. 

Connect 17 with P on waist line. 

19 from 17 is Yj, inch. 

Shape the front edge from bottom button to 19. 

This is done for the working in of the front. 

11 from 19 is 6 inches. 

Connect 11 with 14. 

At point 28 draw a line parallel to Z and 7 and mark pocket 
as shown. 

Mark breast pockets as shown. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from point 3. 

The notch in back armhole is Yz scye-depth up from V. 

Space buttons as desired. 

STORM COLLAR FOR ULSTER. 

Square forward and down from A. 
B from A is 1 inch. 

2 from B is 1 inch. 

C from 2 is \Yz inches for stand. 

D from C is SYz inches for width of collar, or change to suit. 

For length of collar, measure the neck of back from A to 6 

and neck of front from F to 18, and in this case it will be 

9J4 inches ; apply the same from 2 to E. 
F from E is 5Yz inches, or change to suit. 

3 from F is one-half the width as F from E. 
Finish collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



67 




D. B. ULSTER 



DIAGRAM No. 31 



68 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING. 

RAGLAN OVERCOAT DIAGRAM NO. 32 

It must be understood that the lines of construction for the Raglan are drafted the same as for 
the S. B. Box Overcoat. As this diagram does not require the full drafting explanation, 
we proceed with the following changes : 

Connect F and 3 as shown by broken line. 

C is halfway between F and 3. 

D from C is 1 inch. 

Shape from F at neck through D and 8 to J as shown. 

Advance a seam's width at F and shape neck as shown. 

Connect I with H as shown by broken line. 

E from I is 1^ inches. 

Shape back from 6 at neck through E to J as shown. 

The notches in front and back remain the same as in Box Overcoat. 



RAGLAN SLEEVE DIAGRAM NO. 33 

The drafting measure for the Raglan Sleeve is gained by measuring the scye-depth by the halves 

and in this diagram gives us 20. 
Square forward and down from A. 

from A is ^ scye-depth. 

V up from O is 34 scye-depth. 

L from O is the inside length. 

H is half ways between O and L. 

Square forward G, O, H and L. 

J from A is J4 scye-depth. 

Square up and down from J, locating points 1, 2 and 3. 

4 and 5 is 1 inch on either side of point 1. 

6 and 7 is 1 inch on either side of point 3. 

Connect 4 and 6 and 5 and 7. 

8 up from 1 is 1 inch. 

D from 8 is 3^ scye-depth. 

Connect D with 8. 

Connect O with J, locating 9. 

Draw a straight line through 9, locating Q and Z. 

10 from 8 is the same length plus Yz inch as from notch in front arm-hole at 8 to F at neck. 

11 from 10 is 1^4 inches. 

13 from J is 1 34 inches. 

12 from J line is 1 inch. 

N from D is •)4 inch below V line. 

20 from N is ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line up from H through 20 as shown by broken line, locating point 18. 
Pivot at O and swing from 11 to 18 as shown by broken cun'e line. 

14 from 3 for width of sleeve at wrist is 34 scye-depth plus 3^ inch, or change to suit. 

16 from 14 is L)4 inches. 

Shape bottom of sleeve from 3 to 16 as shown. 

15 is half way between 3 and 16. 

Shape top-sleeve from 18 to N and from N to H at elbow down to 16 at wrist. 

21 from 18 for width of top-sleeve at center seams, including seams, is % inch. 

Shape center seam of sleeve from 21 through Z to 34 inch advanced from 9 and Q down to 15 
as shown. 

1 from 11 for width of sleeve at center seam, including seams, is '/^ inch. 

Shape center seam of top-sleeve from I to 3^ inch below Z to 34 inch advanced from 9 and O 

down to 34 inch from 15 as shown. 
Shape top-sleeve from 11 to 13 through 12 to 8 and 4 as shown. 
Shape inseam of top-sleeve coming in ^4 inch at elbow line. 

17 from Q is 1 inch for imder-sleeve. 

Advancing a seam's width at 20, shape arm-hole of under-sleeve from 20 through 17 to 34 inch 

above 5 as shown. 
Shape outseam of under-sleeve from 20 to H to 16 at wrist. 

Shape inseam of under-sleeve from 5, coming in 54 inch at elbow line down to 7 at wrist. 
Cut notch for sleeve at 8, and finish as represented. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



69 




HAGLAN OVERCOAT 



DIAGRAM No. 32 




15 ^~~^I6 

RAGLAN SLEEVE DIAGRAM No. 33 



70 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING. 

STOUT S. B. OVERCOAT 
DIAGRAM NO. 34 



The measures for this Stout S. B. Overcoat are taken over 
the vest and drafted 2 sizes larger. 



Armblade 13 

Shoulder height S'A 

Scye-depth 10^ 

Waist length U'A 

Full length 44 

Front strap 13^ 



Sleeve length Uyi 

Breast 42 

Waist 43 

Seat 47 

Back-blade 41 



Note. — It must be understood that the back-blade is not a 
measure taken but reduced from the breast according to 
the armblade. I find this method essential, therefore I will 
explain how it is done. For example, we have for this dia- 
gram breast 42 and 13 armblade. We use the ordinary 
square; using the long end we locate 13 inches and then 
reversing the square we find that it shows 19'^ by the %; 
we then add 3 spaces by the %, giving us 20^ by the %, 
which is equal to 41, thus giving us back-blade 41. 

This method is used only for stouts. 
Square forward and down from A. 

5 from A is the shoulder height, or Yq back-blade. 
D from A is the scye-depth or yi back-blade. 

W from A is the waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W, and L. 

7 from W is 5^ inch. 

15 is located by squaring down from 7. 

H is halfways between A and D. 

E is located on breast line by connecting H and 7. 

B from E is the armblade 13. 

2 from B is ^ inch. 

3 from 2 is 5^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus J4 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 2% inches for button stand. 

U back from M is M2 breast and square up. 

V back from 2 is 54 breast plus !4 inch and square up, locat- 
ing 8. 

C from A is !4 breast. 

6 from C is 1 inch. 
6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Raise shoulder ^ inch at point I. 

Raise neck 5^ inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 
as shown. 

At point I we regulate the width of shoulder desired. 

T is located by connecting H and B. 

O from 7 is l^ breast. 

Allow 1 inch from O for width of back. 

N from IS is 2}4 inches more than E from V. 

At T fix ;/2 inch out and shape side seam of back from I to 
T to advanced point O to M. 

C from 2 is }^ breast in armhnle. 



12 from C is 1J4 inches. 
Connect F and 8. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is Yz inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 

Connect 9 and 12, and shape shoulder and armhole of front. 

C from F is J^ breast on U line. Square out at C and shape 
neck as desired. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 2% inches. 

P from K is 2% inches for button stand. 

Connect P with P for front edge. 

10 from D is % sleeve length, giving you depth of pocket. 

Square out at 10, giving you point Z. 

The front is balanced by connecting 7 and Z and squaring 
down at Z, locating P at bottom. 

J from E is J/2 back-blade. 

Square down, locating point R on waist line. 

C from R is 5^ waist plus 1 inch. 

Y from O is % seat and square down. 

G from Y is the same as W from D. 

Connect points G and C. 

Measure side of back from O to N and apply the same length 
plus % inch from C to 14. 

From a seam's width opening at T shape side seam of front 
from T to C to 14, taking off f^ inch at 14 as shown. 

The dip of front from T to 11 is 6 inches. 

This includes the allowance for creasing in of the front for 
the stout effect. 

Connect 11 and 14 and shape bottom of front as shown. 

At point 28 draw a line parallel to bottom of front and mark 
pocket as shown, locating point 30 at end of pocket. 

32 from Z is 3 inches. 

Connect 32 with 30 and mark 1% inches up at 32 for lap. 

The V underarm is halfways between 3 and J. 

16 from F is 1% inches for crease line of lapel. 

Mark length of shape desired, locating point 18. 

20 from 18 is 2?4 inches for width of gorge. 

Finish front edge by shaping off Yz inch at P at bottom for the 
working in of the front. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is yi scye-depth. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark welt as shown. 

When draft is completed we proceed by cutting in V under 
arm down to pocket then into length of pocket to 30. Cut 
in at 32 to 30 and lap over 1 inch. This method opens the 
V under-arm also, the pocket, at the same time giving you 
the required stout effect. This process is shown on small 
diagram accompanying the stout S. B. Sack diagram. No. 26. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 16 is width of neck of back plus H inch. 

24 from 22 is lj4 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 22 is 2 inches for width of collar. 

Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



71 




STOUT S. B. OVERCOAT 



DIAGRAM No. 34 



72 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



OVERCOAT DRAFTING. 

INVERNESS CAPE OVERCOAT DIAGRAM NO. 35 

We find that the proper method to draft the Inverness Cape is to use a form-fitting Overcoat 
pattern. To thoroughly understand how to draft this cape, we proceed as follows : 

The back being marked out on a sheet of paper, we extend breast, waist, and bottom lines of 
back as shown. 

Draw a straight line up and down of center seam of back. 

C from side of back is 1 inch on breast line. 

D from side of back is 2^ inches on waist line. 

E from side of back is 2 inches at bottom. 

Shape shoulder of back from A, rounding off j4 inch at B through C, D and E. 

The notches 1 and 2 are 1 inch from A and B. 

The Front: The front being marked out, we proceed as follows: 

B is notch in arm-hole. 

Draw a line from B parallel to breast line. 

H from B is ^ breast. 

Square up from H. 

Y from H is 34 breast. 

Connect A with Y as shown by broken line. 

L from A is 21 inches for length of cape. 

This length is gained by measuring from neck point A of front shoulder to outside of length 
of sleeve at wrist. 

Pivoting at A, swing from L at side to L at front edge for front length of cape. 
T from L is 2>4 inches. 
Shape cape from shoulder, curving at T. 

Shape front edge of cape, running high at neck, coming into the gorge line at C, down to L as 
shown. 

K is located on waist line at side of front. 

Pivoting at A of front, swing from K to S as shown. 

Complete arm-hole from B to K. 

3 from S is 1 inch, giving you notch for opening of cape. 

2 is ^ inch from shoulder point at arm-hole from width of V cut in shoulder. 

V is ^ inch up from S. 

Point 3 being a notch, it must match with point D at waist of back. 

It also being understood that point D must match with point K of forepart. 

Points 1 and 2 of front shoulder must match with 1 and 2 of back shoulder. 

For working in the back shoulder the same process is used to fix point R on the front cape so as 
to match with point C of the back. 

This completes the Diagram No. 35. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



73 





INVERNESS CAPE DIAGRAM No. 35 



BACK FOR INVERNESS 
DIAGRAM No. 35 



74 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



S. B. CUTAWAY 
DIAGRAM NO. 36 

The following measures are used for this diagram : 



Armblade WA 

Shoulder height 3 

Scye-depth 9 

Natural waist length... 165^ 
Fashionable waist length 18% 
Full length 37 



Front strap 12% 

Sleeve length 18 

Breast 36 

Waist 32 

Seat 38 



Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length, 1J4 inches lower. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, VV, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Square down half ways between 7 and 10 as shown by broken 
line. 

E is located by connecting 7 and A. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is % inch. 

3 from 2 is 5^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus % inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1% inches for button stand. 

U back from M is \{2 breast plus % inch and square up. 

V back from 2 is !4 breast plus % inch, and square up, locat- 
ing points 8 and 11. 

C from A is ^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

T from I is i^ breast plus 14 inch. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 
point Q. 

C from 7 is ]/g breast, and square up and down, locating N at 
bottom of back. 

Raise neck yi inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 
from A to 6 to I. 

Shape armhole of back from I to T and from T to Q to C as 
shown. 

Allow ^ inch for pleat at C and N and finish back as shown. 

J from E is H breast. 

R is located by squaring down from J. 

X is located by squaring down from M. 

K from X is 3 inches for seams. 

P from K is 1J4 inches for button stand. 

Connect O with P as shown. 

C from 2 h % breast in armhole. 

12 from C is 1 inch. 

Connect F and 8. 

9 from F for width of front shoulder is J4 inch less than 
width of back shoulder. 



H from J is 3,i inch. 

17 from R is I4 inch. 

Shape the under armseam of front and sidebody from H to 
17 and from H to R, curving slightly inward at waist. 

16 is halfways between K and X. 

Y is located by applying one-half full waist 32 inches in the 
following manner: Measure the width of back from C to 7, 
giving you for this diagram 2% inches. Place the 2% inches 
on point 16 of waist line and measure backward to point 17. 
Shift over to point R (thus taking; out the difference be- 
tween front and sidebody) and continue for point Y, allow- 
ing yi inch for V cut in forepart. 

Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 

O is 1^ inch below point T. 

Advancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody to 
point J4 inch above H as shown. 

Shape sidebody from O to Z, curving slightly inward at Y 
down to point 13, which is M inch below fashionable waist 
line. 

Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and from O 
to 13 of sidebody. 

Shape bottom of sidebody from 13 to H inch above waist line. 

Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 
at H. 

C from F is }^ breast. 

Square forward at C and shape neck as shown. 

Apply the tape measure from F to 13, and pivoting at F apply 
the same length from F to IS for front waist line. 

Shape front edge from P at waist to 15 as shown. 

Shape waist seam of front from % inch below under-arm 
seam to IS as shown. 

G from 13 is the same as W from D. 

U from G is ^2 seat. 

Taking off a seam's width at 13. connect U with 13. 

14 from 13 is the length plus H inch as C from N. 

Shape seat line of skirt, curving out JcJ inch at U. 

Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at points 13 and 14 and shape 
same as shown by broken line. 

Regulating the opening of skirt to suit, we measure down the 
same length from 15 to 19 as from 13 to 14. 

At 13 shape waist line of skirt H inch below under-arm seam 
to V in front, curving down to an opening )-^ inch at 15. 

Finish bottom of skirt as shown. 

21 from F is l!4 inches for crease line. 
Mark length of shape desired, locating 18. 

20 from 18 is 2'/i inches for gorge, or change to suit. 

Finish shape of lapel as desired. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is '/z scye-depth. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark V in waist-line of front. 

Mark welt as shown. 

Mark flap as shown. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 
Shape collar as shown. 

22 from 21 is width of neck of back plus % inch. 
The notch at 22 is lowered % inch. 

24 from 22 is IH inches for collar stand. 
26 from 22 is \3^ inches for width of collar. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



75 




S. B. CUTAWAY 



DIAGRAM No. 36 



76 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



D. B. FROCK 
DIAGI^M NO. 37 

The following measures are used for this diagram : — 

Armblade 11J4 Front strap 12}4 

Shoulder height 3 Sleeve length 18 

Scye-depth 9 Breast 36 

Natural waist length... 16^ Waist 32 

Fashionable waist length \8l4 Seat 38 

Full length 42 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Square down halfways between 7 and 10 as shown by broken 

line. 
E is located by connecting 7 and A. 
B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is J4 inch and square up. 

3 from 2 is 5^2 inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus H inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

U back from M is Vi" breast. Square up. 
V back from 2 is J4 breast plus 'A inch and square up, locat- 
ing 8 and 11. 
C from A is Yi breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

T from I is ^ breast plus yi inch. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 

point Q. 
C from 7 is Ys breast, and square up and down, locating N at 

bottom of back. 
Raise neck ^ inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 

from A to 6 to I. Shape armhole of back from I to T 

through Q to C as shown. 
Allow 3/i inch for pleat at C and N and finish back as shown. 
J from E is J4 breast, and square down, locating R on waist 

line. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
K from X is 2^ inches for seams. 
Shape front edge by connecting 4 and K with curve rule, 

locating point 20 on neck line. 
C from 2 is ^ breast in armhole. 
12 from C is 1J4 inches. 
Connect F and 8. 
9 from F for width of front shoulder is Yz inch less than 

width of back shoulder. 
H from J is 54 inch. 
17 from R is 54 inch. 
Shape the underarm seam of front and sidebody from H to 17 

and from H to R, curving slightly inward at waist. 
16 is halfways between K and X. 



Y is located by applying one-half full waist 32 inches in the 
following manner: Measure the width of back from C to 7, 
giving you for this diagram 2J4 inches. Place the 254 inches 
on point 16 of waist line and measure backward to point 17. 
Shift over to point R (thus taking out the difference be- 
tween front and sidebody) and then continue for point Y, 
allowing Y2 inch extra for V cut in forepart. 

Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 

O is 5^ inch below point T. 

Advancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody to 
point 54 iuch above H as shown. 

Shape sidebody from O to Z, curving slightly inward at Y 
down to point 13, which is j^ inch below fashionable waist 
line. 

Note. — Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and 
from O to 13 of sidebody. 

Shape bottom of sidebody from 13 to % inch above waist line. 

Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 
at H. 

C from F is 5^ breast. 

Square forward at C and shape neck as shown. 

Apply the tape measure from F to 13 and pivoting at F ap- 
ply the same length from F to 15 for front waist line. 

Curve waist seam of front from under-arm seam to -)4 inch 
above 15 as shown. 

REVERE. 

Place square at K and 4 and square up and down, giving you 
an opening of % inch at waist seam of front and 1 inch on 
neck line for revere. 

The width of revere on waist seam of front is 2% inches. 

The width of revere from K to P is 3^4 mches. 

The width of revere on neck line for point of lapel is 2Y2 
inches from opening, or change to suit. 

Shape revere as shown. 

21 from F is 1J4 inches for crease line. 
Mark length of shape desired, locating 18. 
G from 13 is the same as W from D. 

U from G is ^12 seat. 

Taking off a seam's width at 13 of sidebody, draw a straight 

line through U as shown by broken line for spring of skirt. 
14 from 13 is Y2 inch more than C from N. 
Shape seat line of skirt, curving out 54 inch at U down to 14 

as shown. 
Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at 13 and 14 and shape same as 

shown by broken line. 
Square down from P at waist line for front edge of skirt. 
The front length of skirt from P to 19 is Y2 inch longer than 

from 13 to 14. 
Connect 19 with 14 and shape bottom of skirt as shown. 
28 is 1 inch below waist line on J line for opening of skirt 

at waist. 
Shape waist of skirt from 13 through 28 to Y2 inch above 15 

to bottom of revere. 
The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 
The notch in back armhole is 14 scye-depth up from V. 
Space buttons as desired. 
Mark V in bottom of front. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

22 from 21 is width of neck of back plus Y inch. 

Lower notch Y inch at 22. 24 from 22 is 1 5^2 inches for collar 

stand. 
26 from 22 is 154 inches for width of collar. Shape collar 

as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



77 




ISB^^ 



D. B. FROCK 



DIAGRAM No. 37 



78 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



FULL DRESS 
DIAGRAM NO. 38 

The following measures are used for this diagram ;— 



Armblade llj^ 

Shoulder height 3 

Scye-depth 9 

Natural waist length... 16^ 

Fashionable waist length 18^ 

Full length 39 



Front strap 12^ 

Sleeve length 18 

Breast 36 

Waist 32 

Seat 38 



Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height. 

D from A is the scye-depth. ' 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Fix points halfways between 7 and 10 and square down as 

shown by broken line. 
E is located by connecting 7 and A. 
B from E is the arm-blade. 

2 from B is 54 inch and square up. 

3 from 2 is Yz inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus !4 inch. 

4 from M is 2^4 inches for seams. 

U back from M is M2 breast and square up. 
V back from 2 is ^ breast plus Yn inch and square up, locat- 
ing 8 and 11. 
C from hi^Yi breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

Connect F and 3. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

T from I is ^ breast plus Y2 inch. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 

point Q. 
C from 7 is Yg breast and square up and down, locating N at 

bottom of back. 
Raise neck Y2 inch at and shape neck and shoulder of back 

from A to 6 to I. 
Shape arm-hole of back from I to T through Q to C as 

shown. 
Allow 54 inch for pleat at C and N and finish back as shown. 
J from E is J4 breast and square down, locating R on waist 

line. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
K from X is 1'4 inches for seams. 

Shape front edge by connecting 4 and K with curve rule, lo- 
cating 21 on neck line. 
C from 2 is }^ breast in arm-hole. 
12 from C is 1% inches. 
Connect F and 8. 
9 from F for width of front shoulder is Y2 inch less than 

width of back shoulder. 
H from J is J4 inch. 
17 from R is 1 inch. 
Shape the under arm seam of front and sidebody from H to 

17 and H to R, curving slightly inward at waist. 
16 is halfwavs between K and X. 



Y is located by applying one-half full waist in the following 

manner : — Measure the width of back from C to 7, giving 

you for this diagram 2% inches. Place the 2% inches on 

point 16 on waist line and measure backward to point 17. 

Shift over to point R (thus taking out the difference of 

front and side body), and continue for Y, allowing Yt inch 

for V cut for front. 
Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 
O is 5^ inch below point T. 
Advancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody 

to point 3/i inch above H, as shown. 
Shape side body from O to Z, curving slightly inward at Y 

down to point 13, which is H inch below fashionable waist 

line. 
Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and from O 

to 13 of sidebody. 
Shape bottom of sidebody from 13 to Y& inch above waist line. 
Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 

at H. 
C from F is 5^ breast. Square forward at C and shape neck 

as shown. 
Apply the tape measure from F to 13, and pivoting at F 

apply this length to point IS for front waist line. 
Curve waist line of front from side seam to ^ inch above 

15 as shown. 
G from 13 is the same length as W from D. 
U from G is Vio seat. 
Taking off a seam's width at 13 of sidebody, draw a straight 

line through U as shown by broken line. 
14 from 13 is the same length plus Y inch than C from N. 
Shape seat line of skirt, curving out 54 inch at U. 
Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at 13 and 14 and shape same 

as shown by broken line. 
Continue front edge line to below point IS. 

18 from IS is M2 breast for width of skirt strap, or change 
to suit 

Draw a line from 18 to point Y inch above 13, giving us front 
dip of skirt strap. 

19 from 18 is % breast, or change to suit. 

20 from 14 for width of bottom skirt is % breast, or change 
to suit. 

Connect 20 with 19 and finish skirt as shown by broken line. 
Place square at K and 4 and square up and down, giving you 

an opening Y inch at waist seam of front and 1 inch at neck 

line of front for revere. 
Measure the front edge from 21 to 18 and apply the same 

length less Y2 inch on the inside of the revere line. 
The width of revere on neck line is 154 inches, or change to 

suit. 
P from K for width of revere is 2Y inches. 
The width of revere on waist seam is the same width as from 

IS to 18 of skirt strap. 

23 from F is 1^ inches for crease line. 

Shape revere and mark length of shape desired and connect 

with 23, locating 22. 
Mark notch in front arm-hole 1 inch up from 3. 
Notch in back is Y scye depth up from Y. 
Space buttons as desired. 
Mark V in waist seam of front. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

24 from 23 is the width of neck of back plus Yz inrli 

25 from 24 is 1J4 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 24 is 154 inches for width of collar. 
Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



79 




FULL DRESS 



DIAGRAM No. 38 



80 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 

ONE-PIECE FULL DRESS DIAGRAM NO. 39 

To produce a one-piece effect in full dress coats accurately, it is advisable to trace the front, skirt 
and sidebody and revere of dress coat from the ordinary draft. 

Place these parts in the same position as when drafted as shown by broken line and proceed with 
the following changes to produce the one-piece effect : 

Shape the front edge from point of lapel, coming in ^ inch at A, through the center of the revere 
at B, down to point 18. 

Apply the tape measure from F to 13 and, pivoting at F, ajjply the same length plus 1 inch to 
locate point C for dip of front. 

Shape dip of front from E to C as shown. 

19 from 18 is 34 breast plus 1 inch. 

Allow a seam's width at 19 and shape front edge of skirt as shown. 

D is the length of shape desired. 

G from F for clam in neck is shifted back 1 inch from 21 to G as shown by heavy line. 

The above method can be applied to produce the same results when drafting one-piece stout full 
dress Coats. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



81 




ONE-PIECE DRESS COAT 



DIAGRAM No. 39 



82 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



STOUT S. B. CUTAWAY 
DIAGRAM NO. 40 

The following measures are used for this Diagram : 

Armblade 12'/$ Front strap 13;4 

Shoulder height 3% Sleeve length 17]4 

Scye-depth 9H Breast 40 

Natural waist length . . 16f<i Waist 41 

Fashionable waist length ISyi Seat 44 

Full length 37 Back-blade 39 

Note. — It must be understood that the back-blade is not a 
measure taken, but reduced from the breast according to 
the armblade. I find this method essential, therefore I will 
explain how it is done. 

For example : We have for this Diagram breast 40, armblade 
12}4. We use the ordinary square. Using the long end, we 
locate 121/2 inches, and upon reversing the square we find 
that it shows us 18.J4 inches by the %. We now add 3 
spaces on the %, giving us 19^ by the %, which is equal to 
39, thus giving us the back-blade 39. 

This method is used only in stouts. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height, or Va back-lilade. 

D from A is the scye-depth, or ^ back-blade. 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from S, D, W, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Fix point halfways between 7 and 10 and square down as 
shown by broken line. 

E is located by connecting 7 and A. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is H inch. 

3 from 2 is ^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus J.4 inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

P from 4 is 1% inches for button stand. 

U back from M is Via breast plus }i inch, and square up. 

V back frotn 2 is J4 back-blade plus % inch, and square up, 

locating points 8 and 11. 
C from A is J^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from S is 1 inch. 

F from 3 is the front strap less the width of neck of back. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

T from I is ^ back-blade plus l/z inch. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 

point Q. 
C from 7 is % breast, and square up and down, locating N at 

bottom of back. 
Raise neck yi inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 

from A to 6 to I. 
Shape armhole of back from I to T and from T to Q to C as 

shown. 
Allow 54 '"ch for pleat at C and N, and finish back as shown. 
J from E is ^ back-blade. Square down from J, locating R 

on waist line. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
K from X is 3 inches. 
P from K is 1^ inches for button stand. 
Connect P with P as shown by broken line. 
C from 2 is ^ breast in armhole. 
12 from C is 154 inches. 
Connect F and 8. 
9 from F for width of front shoulder is yi inch less than 

width of back shoulder. 
H from J is ^ inch. 
17 from R is 54 i"ch for normal stouts. 



Shape the under-arm seam of front and sidebody from H to 
17 and from H to R, curving slightly inward at waist. 

Note. — When the waist of a corpulent stout exceeds 2 inches 
or more than the breast, we do not shape the under-arm 
seam of front and sidebody, but allow them to cross each 
other at point R. 

15 from P is \^ breast. 
18 from IS is % waist. 

As the waist in this Diagram is more than breast, point 18 is 

located in front of point P. 
This method produces the stout effect. 

16 is halfways between K and X. 

Y is located by applying one-half full waist 41 inches in the 

following manner ; 
Measure the width of back from C to 7, giving you for this 

Diagram Z'/^ inches. Place the 21/^ inches on point 16 on 

waist line and measure backward to point 17. Shift over 

to point R (thus taking out the diiTerence between front 

and side body), and continue for point Y, allowing yi inch 

for V cut in front. 
Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 
O is J^ inch below point T. 
Advancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody to 

point j4 inch above H, as shown. 
Shape sidebody from O to Z, curving slightly inward at Y 

down to point 13, which is H inth below fashionable waist 

line. 
Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and O to 13 

of sidebody. 
Shape bottom of sidebody from 13 to % inch above waist 

line. 
Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 

at H. 
C from F is 1/8 breast. 

Square forward at C and shape neck as shown. 
Apply the tape measure from F to 13, and pivoting at F apply 

the same length from F to 19 for front waist line. 
Shape front edge from P at breast to 18 and 19, as shown. 
Shape waist seam of front from % inch below under-arm 

seam to 19, as shown. 
G from 13 is the same as W from D. 
U from G is M2 seat. 

Taking off a seam's width at 13, connect U with 13. 
14 from 13 is J/2 inch more than C to N. 
Shape seat line of skirt, curving out ^ inch at U. 
Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at 13 and 14 and shape same 

as shown by broken line. 
Regulate the opening of skirt to suit and measure down the 

same length from 19 to 20 as from 13 to 14. 
Shape front of skirt as shown, 
.^t 13 shape waist line of skirt 3/^ inch below under-arm seam 

to V marked in front, curving down to an opening yi inch 

at 19. 

21 from F is 1^ inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired and connect same with 21. lo- 
cating point 22. 

23 from 22 is Zyi inches for widtli of gorge, or change to suit. 
Finish shape of lapel as desired. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is ^ back-blade. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark V in waist seam of front, also cut in V at 30. 

Mark welt as desired. 

Mark flap as shown. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

24 from 21 is width of neck of back plus yi inch. 

25 from 24 is 1J4 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 24 is 1J4 inches for width of collar. 
Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



83 




STOUT S. B. CUTAWAY 



DIAGRAM No. 40 



84 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



STOUT D. B. FROCK 
DIAGRAM NO. 41 

The following measures are used for this Diagram : 



Armblade 12^ 

Shoulder height 3l4 

Scye-depth 9J4 

Natural waist length... 16J4 

Fashionable waist length IS'/i 

Full length 39 



Front strap 1354 

Sleeve length 17% 

Breast 40 

Waist 41 

Seat 44 

Back-blade 39 



Note. — It must be understood that the back-blade is not a 
measure taken, but reduced from the breast according to 
the armblade. 

For example: We have for this Diagram breast 40 and arm- 
blade Uyi- We use the ordinary square. Using the long 
end, we locate IZyi inches, and upon reversing the square 
we find that it shows us 18^ by the %rds. We now add 
3 spaces on the %, giving us 19^ by the 7^, which is equal 
to 39, thus giving us the back-blade 39. This method is used 
for stouts only. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height, or Vg back-blade. 

D from A is the depth of arm or H back-blade. 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Fix point halfways between 7 and 10 and square down as 
shown by broken line. 

E is located by connecting 7 and A. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is f^ inch. 

3 from 2 is ^ inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus 'A inch. 

4 from M is 3 inches for seams. 

U back from M is M2 breast plus % inch, and square up. 

V back from 2 is ^ back-blade plus J4 inch, and square up, 

locating points 8 and 11, 
C from A is J^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

T from I is ^ back-blade plus J/2 inch. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 

point Q. 
C from 7 is ^ breast, and square up and down, locating N at 

bottom of back. 
Raise neck I/2 inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 

from A to 6 to I. 
Shape armhole of back from I to T and from T to Q to C, 

as shown. 
Allow J4 inch for pleat at C and N and finish back as shown. 
J from E is 5^ back-blade. 
Square down from J, locating R on waist line. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
K from X is 3 inches for seams. 
Connect K with 4 as shown by broken line. 
C from 2 is 54 breast in armhole. 
12 from C is I'A inches. 
Connect F and 8. 
9 from F, for width of front shoulder, is 14 inch less than 

width of back shoulder. 
H from J is 34 inch. 
17 from R is 54 inch. 
Shape under-arm seam of front and sidebody from H to 17 

and from H to R, as shown, curving slightly inward at 

waist. 



Note. — When the waist of a corpulent stout exceeds 2 inches 
or more than the breast, we do not shape the under-arm 
seams, but allow them to cross each other at point R. 

1-5 from K is 5i breast. 

18 from 15 is li waist. 

As the waist in this Diagram is more than the breast, point 18 
is located in front of point K. This method produces the 
stout effect. 

16 is halfways between K and X. 

Y is located by applying one-half full waist 41 inches in the 
following manner : Measure the width of back from C to 
7, giving you for this Diagram 254 inches. Place the 254 
inches on point 16, and measure backward to 17. Shift 
over to point R (thus taking out the difference betvveen 
front and sidebody) and continue for Y, allowing yi inch 
for V cut in front. 

Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 

O is Js inch below point T. 

Advancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody 
to point 34 inch above H, as shown. "" 

Shape sidebody from O to Z, curving slightly inward at Y 
down to point 13, which is H inch below fashionable waist 
line. 

Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and from O 
to 13 of sidebody. 

Shape bottom of sidebody from 13 to % inch above waist line. 

Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 
at H. 

C from F is 5^ breast on U line. 

Square forward at C and shape neck as shown. 

Apply the tape measure from F to 13, and pivoting at F ap- 
ply the same length to 19 for front waist line. 

Connect 4 with 18 and 19 as shown, locating 23 on neck line. 

Square up and down from point 18, giving you an opening 54 
inch at waist seam of front and 154 inches at neck line of 
front for revere. 

The width of revere at waist seam of front is 254 inches to P. 

The width of revere from 18 to P is 35^ inches, or change to 
suit. 

The width of revere on neck line for point of lapel is 254 
inches from opening. 

Shape revere as shown. 

21 from F is 154 inches for crease line. 

Mark length of shape desired and connect same with 21, locat- 
ing 22. 

G from 13 is the same as W from D. 

U from G is M2 seat! 

Taking off a seam's width at 13, connect U with 13. 

14 from 13 is 54 inch more than C from N. 

Shape seat line of skirt, curving out J4 inch at U down to 14, 
as shown. 

Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at 13 and 14 and shape same as 
shown by broken line. 

Square down from P at waist seam of front for front edge of 
skirt. 

The front length of skirt from P to 20 is 54 inch longer than 
13 to 14. 

Connect 20 with 14 and finish bottom of skirt as shown. 

28 is 1 inch below waist seam of skirt on J line for opening 
of skirt at waist. 

Shape waist seam of skirt from 13 through 28 to 19 into waist 
seam of revere. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is 54 scye-depth, or back-blade. 

Space buttons as desired. 

Mark V in bottom of front, also cut in at 30. 

COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up 

24 from 21 is width of neck of back plus 54 inch. 

25 from 24 is 154 inches for collar stand. 

26 from 24 is IH inches for width of collar. 
Shape collar as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



85 




STOUT D. B. FROCK 



DIAGRAM No. 41 



86 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FROCK DRAFTING. 



STOUT FULL DRESS 
DIAGRAM NO. 42 

The following measures are used for this Diagram : 

Arrablade 12J4 Front strap 13'4 

Shoulder height 3^ Sleeve length 17% 

Scye-depth 9^ Breast 40 

Natural waist length... 16% Waist 41 

Fashionable waist length 18!4 Seat 44 

Full length 38 Back-blade 39 

Note. — It must be understood that the back-blade is not a 
measure taken, but reduced from the breast measure ac- 
cording to the armblade. I find this method essential, there- 
fore I will explain how it is done. 

For example: We have for this Diagram breast 40 and arm- 
blade 12}^. We use the ordinary square. Using the long 
end, we locate 12H inches, and on reversing the square we 
find that it shows us 18)4 by the %. We now add 3 spaces 
on the %, giving us 19 by the %, which is equal to 39, thus 
giving us the back-blade, 39. This method is used in stouts 
only. 

Square forward and down from A. 

S from A is the shoulder height, or % back-blade. 

D from A is the scye-depth, or 54 back-blade. 

W from A is the natural waist length. 

10 from A is the fashionable waist length. 

L from A is the full length. 

Square forward from points S, D, W, 10 and L. 

7 from 10 is 1 inch. 

Fix point halfways between 7 and 10 and square down. 

E on breast line is located by connecting 7 and A. 

B from E is the armblade. 

2 from B is 54 inch. 

3 from 2 is H inch. 

M from E is one-half full breast plus % i"ch. 

4 from M is 2)4 inches. 

U back from M is M2 breast plus Ys inch, and square up. 

V back from 2 is J4 back-blade plus % inch, and square up, 

locating points 8 and 11. 
C from A is "^ breast. 

5 from C is 1 inch. 

6 from S is 1 inch. 

I is located by connecting F and S. 

Connect 6 and I. 

Connect 11 with point halfways between 7 and 10, locating 

point Q. 
C from 7 h 14 breast. 

Square up and down, locating N at bottom of neck. 
Raise neck J4 inch at A and shape neck and shoulder of back 

from A to 6 to I. 
T from I is J^ back-blade plus % inch. 
Shape armhole of back from I to T and from T to Q to C, 

as shown. 
Allow 54 inch for pleat at C and N and finish back as shown. 
J from E is 54 back-blade. 

Square down from J, locating R on waist line. 
X is located by squaring down from M. 
18 from X is 254 inches. 
Connect 4 and 18 as shown by broken line. 
C from 2 is 5^ breast in armhole. 
12 from C is 154 inches. 
Connect F and 8. 
9 from F for width of front slioulder is 14 inch less than 

width of back shoulder. 
H from J is 54 inch. 
17 from R is 54 inch. 
Shape the under-arm seam from H to 17 and from H to R, 

curving slightly inward at waist. 



Note. — When the waist of a corpulent stout exceeds 2 inches 
or more than the breast, we do not shape the under seam of 
front and sidebody, but allow them to cross each other at 
point R. 

15 from 18 is l^ breast. 
18 from IS is \i waist. 

As the waist in this diagram is more than the breast, point 18 
is located in front of point K. This method produces the 
stout effect. 

16 is halfways between K and X. 

Y is located by applying one-half full waist 41 inches in the 

following manner: Measure the width of back from C to 7, 

giving you for this diagram 254 inches. Place the 2y2 

inches on point 16 and measure backwards to point 17. 
Shift over to point R (thus taking out the difference between 

front and sidebody) and continue for point Y, allowing 54 

inch for V cut in front waist seam. 
Z is located by squaring up and down from Y. 
O is 5i inch below point T. 
.\dvancing a seam's width at O, shape armhole of sidebody to 

point 54 inch above H, as shown. Shape sidebody from O 

to Z, curving slightly inward at Y down to point 13, which 

is 5i inch below fashionable waist line. 
Note. — Side lengths must be equal from T to C of back and 

from O to 13 of sidebody. Shape bottom of sidebody from 

13 to % inch above waist line. 
Shape armhole and shoulder of front, allowing a seam's width 

at H. 
C from F is 5^ breast. 

Square forward at C and shape neck as shown. 
Apply the tape measure from F to 13, and pivoting at F apply 

this length less 1 inch to point 19 for front waist line. 
Connect 4 with K and 19, as shown, locating 2S on neck line. 
Curve waist line of front from side seam to 19, as shown. 
G from 13 is the same as W from D. 
U from G is Me seat. 
Coming in a seam's width at 13 of sidebody, draw a straight 

line through U. 
14 from 13 is 54 inch more than C from N. 
Shape seat line of skirt, curving out 54 inch at U down to 14, 

as shown. 
Allow 1 inch for pleat of skirt at 13 and 14 and shape same 

as shown by broken line. 
Continue front edge line to below point 19. 

20 from 19 is M2 breast for width of skirt strap, or change 
to suit. 

Draw a line from 20 to point 5'i inch above 13, giving you 
front dip of skirt strap. 

21 from 20 is l^ breast, or change to suit. 

22 from 14 is % breast for width of bottom of skirt, or change 
to suit. 

Connect 22 with 21, and shape side of skirt as shown. 

Square up and down from 18 for revere line, giving you an 

opening 5^ inch at bottom and 154 inches on neck line. 
Measure front edge from 2S to 19 and from 19 to 20, and 

apply the same length less 54 inch for inside length of revere 

line. 
The width of revere on neck line is 2 inches. 
P from 18 for width of revere is 254 inches. 
The width of revere at waist seam is the same width as from 

19 to 20 of skirt strap, or change to suit. 

23 from F is 154 inches for crease line. 
Mark length of shape desired. 
Connect same with 23, locating 24. 

The notch in front armhole is 1 inch up from 3. 

The notch in back armhole is 54 scye-depth or back-blade. 

Mark Vs in waist seam of front. 



COLLAR. 

Continue shape line up. 

26 from 23 is the width of neck of back plus 
28 from 26 is 154 inches for collar stand. 

27 from 26 is 154 inches for width of collar. 
Shape collar as shown. 



inch. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



87 




STOUT FULL DRESS 



DIAGRAM No. 42 



88 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TESTING SPRING OF CUTAWAY SKIRT. DIAGRAM NO. 43. 

Place parts of Cutaway together as shown on this diagram, leaving an opening >4 inch at D. 
Draw a line through points 1 and 2. 

If this line when extended strikes point 3, we find that the spring is correct. Otherwise you must 
correct same as line indicates. 

TEST FOR SIDEBODY LENGTH. DIAGRAM NO. 44. 

To test length of sidebody place sidebody at 2 to 1 as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



89 





\ SIDEBODY-LENGTH 

\ DIAGRAM No. 44 



TEST FOR SKIRT OF CUTAWAY 
DIAGRAM No. 43 



90 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



TESTING SPRING OF DRESS-COAT. DIAGRAM NO. 45. 

Place parts of Dress Coat together, as shown on this diagram, leaving an opening Yi inch at D. 

Draw a line through points 1 and 2. 

If this line when extended strikes point 3, we find that the spring is correct. Otherwise you must 
correct same as line indicates. 



SCHULMAN-S SYSTEM. 



91 




TEST OF SKIRT FOR DRESS COAT 
DIAGRAM No. 45 



92 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



CLOSE CAPE. 

DIAGRAM No. 46. 



The following process is used to draft the close cape : 

W'e use a tight-fit overcoat pattern, laying it down just as it is drafted. 

Starting at S, draw a straight line, and fix one-half the size,. 36, over to point A. 

Draw a line at right angles, with A and S, and fix one-quarter of the size for point C. 

Fix one-sixteenth of the size on both sides of point C for E and D. Connect points E 

and D. 
Advance one-half of an inch on the waist line at point O and connect points S at neck, 

and fixing the length of cape, 25, or according to measure from point S. 
At point 2 advance one-half inch, and finish shoulder of cape through point C. 
Fix the compass at point 2, get length to L, and swing over to M, finishing cape of back. 
Fix point 3 three-quarters of an inch higher from C, and draw a little line at right angles 

with 3 and A to fix point 5. 
Advance one-half inch higher at point 3, neck of front, and apply the length as from 2 to 

M, and fix the same from 3 to R. 
Apply the length from S to L, and fix the same for front length as from 3 to K. Cut a 

V at point 5, thus completing the close cape. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



93 




CLOSE CAPE. 



DIAGRAM No. 46 



94 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM 



TABLE OF 

PROPORTIONATE MEASURES 


BREAST 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


44 


45 


46 


BREAST 


WAIST 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


WAIST 


BLADE 


10^2 


10/4 


11 


11/4 


11/2 


11/4 


12 


12'4 


12/2 


12/4 


13 


13/4 


13/2 


13/4 


14 


BLADE 


SCYE 


8 


8/8 


8/4 


8/2 


83/4 


8/8 


9 


9/8 


9/4 


9% 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 4 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


wX 


U% 


11/2 


]]% 


12 


12/4 


12/2 


12% 


1234 


12/8 


13 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


WAIST-LENGTH 


1674 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


>6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


I6/4 


16/4 




































SCYE 


8 78 


8/4 


83/8 


8% 


8/8 


9 


9/8 


9/4 


93/8 


9V2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


10/8 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 5 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


\\% 


11/2 


11% 


ll/s 


12/8 


123/8 


n% 


123^ 


12/8 


13 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


WAIST-LENGTH 


W/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


16/2 


I6/2 


16/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 


I6/2 




































SCYE 


8% 


8% 


8/2 


83/4 


9 


9/8 


9/4 


93/8 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


10/8 


10/4 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 6 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


11/2 


11% 


113/4 


12 


12/4 


12/2 


123/4 


12/8 


13 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


133/4 


WAIST-LENGTH 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


153/4 


m 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 


163/4 




































SCYE 


8% 


8% 


8 3/4 


8/8 


9/8 


9/4 


93/8 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


lO/s 


10/4 


10% 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 7 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


11% 


113/4 


11/8 


12/8 


123/8 


n% 


12/8 


13 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


133/4 


13% 


WAIST-LENGTH 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 


17 




































SCYE 


8/2 


8% 


33/4 


9 


9/4 


93/8 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


lO/s 


10/4 


10% 


10/2 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 8 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


11^/4 


11/8 


12 


12/4 


12/2 


123/4 


13 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


133/4 


13/8 


14 


WAIST-LENGTH 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 


17/4 




































SCYE 


8% 


33/4 


8% 


9/8 


93/8 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


10/8 


10/4 


10% 


10/2 


10% 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 9 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


11/8 


12 


12/8 


12% 


12% 


12/8 


13/8 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


133/4 


13% 


14 


14% 


WAIST-LENGTH 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 


17/2 




































SCYE 


8% 


8/8 


9 


9/4 


9/2 


9% 


93/4 


9/8 


10 


lO/s 


10/4 


10% 


10/2 


10% 


103^ 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 10 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


12 


12/8 


12/4 


12/2 


123/4 


13 


13/4 


13% 


13/2 


13% 


133/4 


13% 


14 


14/8 


14/4 


WAIST-LENGTH 


17^/ 


173/4 


173/4 


173/4 


173/4 


173i 


173/4 


173/4 


173/ 


173/ 


U% 


u% 


17%4 


173/4 


1734 




































SCYE 


8/8 


9 


9/8 


93/8 


9% 


934 


9/8 


10 


10/8 


10/4 


10% 


10/2 


10% 


103/4 


10% 


HEIGHT 
5 Ft. 11 In. 


FRONT-STRAP 


12/8 


12/4 


123/8 


\2% 


12/8 


13/8 


133/8 


13/2 


13% 


U% 


13/8 


14 


14/8 


14/4 


14% 


WAIST-LENGTH 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 


BREAST 32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


44 


45 


46 


BREAST 


NOTE:- THIS TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES INCLUDES SEAMS IN SCYE, WAIST-LENGTH & FRONT-STRAP. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. ^ 



MEMORANDUM 



96 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



MEMORANDUM 



